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Hella H-4's vs Stock


Ed

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Are the Hella H-4 better than the stock lights? I recently replaced my headlights (preventative maintanance). But I still don't think they are as bright as other cars. Would the Hella headlights be worth the investment?

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I have replaced the standard sealed beams with the Hella H4's. To get the full effect though you have to have heavy duty wiring put in so that you can put a stronger globe Wattage. I run Tungsram 80/100W. With the added relays and circuit breaker that are a great improvement over standard.

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Of the many different brands I sell I've found the Hella E code H4 headlights to give an excellent beam pattern.

With the early Z's my recommendation and favorite combination is to use the H4's and the Narva XB3 bulb. The E codes give the best beam pattern and the XB3's put out a brilliant white light but use only the current necessary for a standard 60/55 bulb.

If you are going the high wattage route, use relays and understand that bulb life is much shorter with wattage increases.

Remember that you really do get what you pay for in lighting in most cases.

post-2635-14150792153438_thumb.jpg

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I have replaced the standard sealed beams with the Hella H4's. To get the full effect though you have to have heavy duty wiring put in so that you can put a stronger globe Wattage. I run Tungsram 80/100W. With the added relays and circuit breaker that are a great improvement over standard.

An example of the potential difference with the proper upgrade:

post-2635-14150792153569_thumb.gif

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H4, what is your opinion of using high wattage lights in comparison to the Narva XB3.

Have it and it's equivilents made high wattage and the need for relays redundant?

My personal observation has been catastrophic failure [total burn out of the globe] of high wattage [100/130] when selecting low beam after a 15/20 minute period of using high beam!

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H4, what is your opinion of using high wattage lights in comparison to the Narva XB3.

Have it and it's equivilents made high wattage and the need for relays redundant?

My personal observation has been catastrophic failure [total burn out of the globe] of high wattage [100/130] when selecting low beam after a 15/20 minute period of using high beam!

How are you using the 130/100? With relays, with both filaments lit? What brand of bulbs?

The major advantage of the xenon gassed dichroic coated bulbs is colour of the light.

The only thing that beats wattage is the new HID technology; Bright from relative low wattage due to colour temperature.

No filament!

But the down side is cost.

Hella and others have great HID auxillary lighting that put out amazing light with low current draw due to the power of the transformers used to run the HID tubes.

The Narvas are an improvement for most street driving applications and are better than standard H4's.

BTW: There are high wattage bulbs designed for severe duty applications, ie. rallye, but usually only go up to 100/80 in H4.

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I just purchased a set of new H4 headlight assemblies for my 74 off of e-bay. Where can I purchase new connectors, relays, and other misc. stuff I might need to switch it over.

This is what it said I was getting:

x2 IDENTICAL CRYSTAL DOT / SAE APPROVAL LENSES

WITH BUILT IN SIDE PARKING LIGHTS ON THE SAME SIDE (SHOWN IN THE ABOVE PICTURES)

x2 MADE IN USA H4 SUPER WHITE XENON HID LOOK BULBS

x2 HYPER BLUE 194/168 PARKING LIGHT BULBS WITH 2 SOCKETS

x2 RUBBER SEALED CAP

55/60W Usage --> 90/100W Output

So any help would be appreciated. :)

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I just purchased a set of new H4 headlight assemblies for my 74 off of e-bay. Where can I purchase new connectors, relays, and other misc. stuff I might need to switch it over.

This is what it said I was getting:

x2 IDENTICAL CRYSTAL DOT / SAE APPROVAL LENSES

WITH BUILT IN SIDE PARKING LIGHTS ON THE SAME SIDE (SHOWN IN THE ABOVE PICTURES)

x2 MADE IN USA H4 SUPER WHITE XENON HID LOOK BULBS

x2 HYPER BLUE 194/168 PARKING LIGHT BULBS WITH 2 SOCKETS

x2 RUBBER SEALED CAP

55/60W Usage --> 90/100W Output

So any help would be appreciated. :)

I saw those on E bay as well. Interesting claim of DOT...how do you adjust them? (no alignment tips on lens per DOT requirements).

I did not know that DOT had approved sidelights in upgrade housings especially in colors not approved for street use.

What SAE standard does the housing meet? (is it for size, materials, transmission, focus).

Claims of high wattage out of lower wattage bulbs are very inaccurate. Most of the coated bulbs have such a dark colored coating as to decrease candella (light output) but do change the color of the light emitted.

Use of xenon gas and differing filament materials and configurations do allow for more efficient operation and output, but most of the bulbs use low amounts of xenon gas or just include the word xenon in the name as a selling tool.

I carry and sell an Ultra Blue bulb that gives the color, but if you want light output I do not recommend them...strictly for the "look".

There all all kinds of lights out there, some good, many bad.

For your 'accessories', any good auto electric business should be able to help you.

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I saw those on E bay as well. Interesting claim of DOT...how do you adjust them? (no alignment tips on lens per DOT requirements).

I did not know that DOT had approved sidelights in upgrade housings especially in colors not approved for street use.

What SAE standard does the housing meet? (is it for size, materials, transmission, focus).

Claims of high wattage out of lower wattage bulbs are very inaccurate. Most of the coated bulbs have such a dark colored coating as to decrease candella (light output) but do change the color of the light emitted.

Use of xenon gas and differing filament materials and configurations do allow for more efficient operation and output, but most of the bulbs use low amounts of xenon gas or just include the word xenon in the name as a selling tool.

I carry and sell an Ultra Blue bulb that gives the color, but if you want light output I do not recommend them...strictly for the "look".

There all all kinds of lights out there, some good, many bad.

For your 'accessories', any good auto electric business should be able to help you.

I knew that these were the "ricer" bulbs but the kit was a good deal I think. My last car was a 02 Maxima and it had real HID's and so I've been wondering if there is a generic HID kit that I could fit into my 260. I really miss my HIDs :(

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I knew that these were the "ricer" bulbs but the kit was a good deal I think. My last car was a 02 Maxima and it had real HID's and so I've been wondering if there is a generic HID kit that I could fit into my 260. I really miss my HIDs :(

The problem is that there is no really good way of getting high and low beams from a single tube, plus a halogen housing (ie.H4) is not configured for an HID tube and thus does not 'focus the beam correctly. You get a lot of light with the HID "retrofit" kits but it's not properly focused light...guaranteed to wizz off oncoming drivers.

There are HID housings made for replacing 7inch sealed beams, but the price is between $800 and $1000 usd. Most Z owners do not spend money in this arena for improved lighting.

My concern with what you bought is there are too many "claims" that seem a too good to be true.

Let me know how they work out.

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How are you using the 130/100? With relays, with both filaments lit? What brand of bulbs?

Relays? Surely you jest when you ask that. It goes without saying that the loom would go the way of the Marlbrough Man if you didn't relay the circuit!

Single filament use, ie only one filament used at one time, [often wondered about the output if you used both, let alone seeing if the alt could push out enough amps] and the globes were??? can't remember, threw them out in a fit of rage as they cost me a finish in a rally. Strangely, they appeared to be functional until the driving lights clicked in?

I'm getting a good spread with the Narva's and probably see if I can change the bulbs in the DL's to the same technology.

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The problem is that there is no really good way of getting high and low beams from a single tube, plus a halogen housing (ie.H4) is not configured for an HID tube and thus does not 'focus the beam correctly. You get a lot of light with the HID "retrofit" kits but it's not properly focused light...guaranteed to wizz off oncoming drivers.

There are HID housings made for replacing 7inch sealed beams, but the price is between $800 and $1000 usd. Most Z owners do not spend money in this arena for improved lighting.

My concern with what you bought is there are too many "claims" that seem a too good to be true.

Let me know how they work out.

I don't have my hopes up too much on this one but I'm SURE it's gonna be far superior to the stock lighting system. Also any links to these "retrofit" kits for my car? Most Z owners might not care but lighting is a LARGE concern of mine especially since I drive all country roads. I wouldn't have even thought of spending that much on some lights until after actually having used HIDs for a couple of months, you just can't go back to standard lighting. :(

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