Clutch Replacement, how hard, and how long?

[Seanh]

A friend of mine wants me to change the clutch in his late 70's 280z. I have been told by some other friends that have done this once already that its a peice of cake. So I was wondering what you guys have to say? How long will it take me, and how difficult is it? What all needs to be done? He has ordered a clutch kit with everything for the clutch in it. I'd assume just pull the drive shaft, and unbolt the trans and pull it out right? Sounds easy enough, but I'v never replace the clutch while leaveing the engine in any of my cars, so I don't know what to do exacly, they were also all FWD's...Thanks

Also, how do you remove the drive shaft exactly?

[DakotaZ]

Disconnect the driveshaft at it's u-joint and slide it out of the transmission, That is if it's the same as a 4 speed '72 240Z. Remove the reverse and speedo lines and unbolt it. Definiately a tight squeeze underneath unless you can put it up on a lift. Hopefully your friend ordered the alignment tool to make your life a little easier.

[2ManyZs]

It will be much easier to remove the trans if you remove the shifter before you attempt dropping the trans. You will need to take the console off, remove the shift boots and pull one pin on the shifter. No big deal but it will be easier to work the trans out if you don't have to drop it so low to clear the shifter.

You will also need to unbolt the slave cylinder for the clutch from the side of the bell housing.

4 bolts hold the driveshaft flange, all should be 14mm. Take them out and drop the driveshaft. Unhook the speedo cable and reverse light wires, remove the bellhousing bolts and then lastly remove the 2 bolts from the trans mount.

It's a rather easy job, shouldn't take more than an afternoon if you have the tools available, and a good set of jackstands to raise the car up high enough that you can slide the trans out from under it so you can have some room to work.

BTW, when you drop the trans mounts, the rear of the engine is going to drop with it. If you can, I usually loop a section of rope under the rear of the engine and tie it to the hood latch framework to keep the rear of the engine a bit more securely. It will help a great deal when you go to put the trans back in, with the engine flopping around in the motor mounts, you may have a hard time lining up the input shaft thru the clutch. Conversely, anyone that is pulling an engine will find it easier to separate the engine from the trans if you loop the rope under the bellhousing to hold the trans still.

[Seanh]

Sounds like fairly easy job then I guess...Will I need to bleed the system when I get it back together? He purchased a clutch kit, so I'd assume it includes the alignment tool wouldn't it? What do the pressure plate bolts need to be torqued down to? Also the flywheel bolts if I decide we need to resurface it?

One other thing about the pressure plate bolts. I have a larger 1/2 drive torque wrench. A few months ago when I was building my Daytona engine I had nothing else to use to torque the press. plate bolts down to 35 ft.lbs, so i used it...It just snappyed the bolts before it clicked for the correct torque. I'd assume useing a large 1/2 wrench would be a little excessive on 10mm bolts, or would this be a problem with my wrench? I am going to buy a new craftsmen one as soon as I have some money to spare. If I don't have it before I do this clutch, will it be alright to not use a torque wrench on the press. plate bolts? I am fairly good mechanic, and I usally am able to know when bolts are torqued enough, and I use lock-tite on them also to keep them in place, so will I be alright without a torque wrench? Thanks!

[2ManyZs]

No need to bleed the clutch system unless you replace the slave cylinder, just hang it out of the way when you pull the trans.

The flywheel bolts should be torqued to 100ft/lbs.

The pressure plate bolts should be 17 1/2-19ft/lbs, you could just tighten them securely with a 3/8 ratchet and they will be fine.

Doubt if a clutch kit will have an alignment tool, you could probably find one at an auto parts store pretty cheap, or if not MSA has them for a reasonable price.

[rzola]

I just did my 71 Z. Spent 9 hours which included cleaning and painting a bunch of parts And installing new exhaust pipes (and header wrap on the y-pipe). Autozone had a great deal on the clutch kit $94 and it included the alignment tool! I cut off a old junk drive shaft and used it to plug the output shaft so no fluid leaks out the back of the gearbox. I also removed the shifter by lowering the trans and removing the clip from underneath. This saved console removal. Just came back from a serious beat ride. The new clutch works great! step.:devious:

[smg1404]

The hardest part is lifting the transmission back into place. and getting the shaft through the clutch. Even after using an alignment tool it can sometimes be a pain in the arse. I usually use a floor jack to lower and raise the transmission. The job usually takes from 2 to 4 hours, depending on my enthusiasm. and the temp in the garage.. and beer supply hotter = slower colder = faster... more = slower less = faster

[ZcarsRock]

great comments guys!!! I will be picking up my clutch kit from Auto Zone this afternoon. Tomorrow ant 1pm the Auto Skills shop opens at Ft Riley( for 2 dollars you can be a member) They charge me 3 bucks an hour but this includes the use of a fully stocked Snap on tool set, special tools, use of one of 20 Car lifts and the advice/assistance of the 4 ASE certified mechanics that work there for the purpose of helping lugs like me. Oh yeah, the Auto Zone kit includes the Alignment tool, prerssure plate, throw out bearing, and clutch disk....all for $94.99. If you live near a military post, check out the auto skills shop on post, most will allow anyone to be a member.

Tony

ZcarsRock!!!

[Guycali]

Do I really need to get a tranny jack or can I use normal floor jack? The jacking head has small surface area and I'm afraid the tranny will roll off of it. Guess I can fabricate a wooden plate with chains to keep it from falling? Is this too much trouble to just change the clutch?

-Guycali

[owenk]

I do not know the height that you are removing the transmission from but on my truck which has the same five speeds but different gears I had rope around the tail so my son could pull the tail up and while I lifted the front into place.

[smg1404]

I have done this at least three times. Not always to replace the clutch.. But anyway if you set it up carefully the trany will set on the jack without much trouble. you ar eright in guessing that it will try to roll off. But it is not that ard to keep it up there.. the trans probably weighs about 35 to 45 lbs. I am sure that someone out there has the exact weight, but it is not that hard to get it in place. A few minute of cussin, and wigglin and poof it's all over.. I put my car on jackstands, on concrete. I make sure that it is not going anywhere. I purposely nudge the car HARD after putting it on the jackstands, Better to have the car fall off of the stand while I am not under it than to be surprised,,,,, While under it... The biggest issue is to not let the joib intimidate you. read the procedure in the service manual several times before trying it the first time. Be sure that you have all the stuff you need before you shove the jack under the car. Then go for it.

Good luck, Don't forget the safety issues.