Water leak between head and block

[Galaxybj]

Well, here I am ready to fire her up for the first time in 1 1/2 years. Finally got the engine together. Filled the radiator and while under the car checking out things I noticed a little drop of water. I looked and found there is water seeping between the head and block just above where the engine number is stamped in the block. There was also some weeping just forward of there too. I was very careful in the installation, but something is amiss. Any ideas? I Know I will have to pull the head back off, but what should I look for? The head is a rebuilt E30.

Thanks in advance for your input. (I thought I had seen this problem in the forums, but couldn't find it by searching tonight.)

[kenz240z]

Just a guess, but perhaps the head bolts are not torqued down all the way? Or maybe there is a problem with the head gasket?

[Galaxybj]

I double checked the head bolt torque and they are as they should be. I am using the turbo head bolts. The head gasket was one I got from Napa. Any better one recommended?

[bobc]

Bill,

That's got to be frustrating. Not sure from you post, but is the leak continuous? If not, before you take it all apart, suggest you try pressuring the coolant system to see if it holds pressure. Wouldn't suggest starting it.

Something must be really amiss if you have a continuous leak with no pressure in the system. Sounds like the head or block (probably head) is warped, cracked or the head gasket got torn or twisted when you put it together.

Are you sure it's leaking between the head and block. Could it be coming from the elbow fitting for the heater?

Hang in there, you'll get it back together.

Bob

[Galaxybj]

Bob, thank you for the reply. VERY frustrating! Started with having one heck of a time getting the original head off. It is a continuous slow seep, not running. Water will sit on the ledge above where the engine number is stamped before getting anough to drip down the side of the block. Further forward on the same side little drops of water will show up. No water leaking from any of the water lines. The block was surfaced when I had it in for boring. The head is a rebuilt I got off eBay a year ago. I never thought about having it checked for straightness - I figured it was done as it has shims under the cam towers. I am going to check to make sure I have the head bolts in the right spot. The Haynes manual shows the passenger side all short and I am almost certain I followed it to a "T", but........ Also, I do not see any water in the cylinders -Bill-

[240ZGL]

If you find the head bolts were not torqued down, then after you tighten them up, pull the plugs to make sure you don't have any coolant in the cylinders. Crank it over a few times with the plugs out otherwise you might have filled the cylinders and that would be bad.

[Galaxybj]

Haven't installed the plugs yet. I pulled the head bolts and I had the correct lengths in the correct holes. I reinstalled them, torqued them in the sequence and settings in the Datsun shop manual - ending with the final torque of 60 ft lbs. I have added the water to the radiator and will go back out to check it.

[Galaxybj]

Actually the settings were from my Haynes manual, except for the sequence, which I used the sequence in the Datsun engine manual. The seep is a lot slower than it was, but never the less it is there. So, when I pull the head back off, 1) recommendation on a head gasket brand and installation, 2) What should I look for when I remove the head?

Thank you in advance for information. -Bill-

[sblake01]

Check the head for straightness. As far as head gaskets go, I like OEM but I've used Fel-Pro with success though some refer to them with the acronym 'Fail-Prone'.

[westpak]

unfortunately assuming the head is straight might be what is the issue.

I would take the head to the machine shop and have them check the surface for straightness and machine if necessary.

quality of headgasket or torque of the head bolts should not be an issue if you have not even started the car yet, unless you just have the head sitting on the block not tightened down or the gasket has obvious damage.

[bobc]

Have to agree with Gus. At this point I would suspect the block isn't straight. While taking it to a machine shop will give you the best answer, You really don't have to do that. Just set a straight edge down the length of it and see if you see a gap of light between the block and the straight edge. For the size of leak you're describing, I bet you will be able to see it. I would use that to rule in the problem, not rule it out. Let the machine shop rule it in or out definitively.

If it's already been shaved once, it might be time to get a new cylinder head. You don't want to get it too shaved or your going to have problems with the valves hitting the top of the pistons.

Bob

[sblake01]

I assumed the block was straight because of the comment in the middle of post #5.