bvolken Posted February 6, 2013 Share #73 Posted February 6, 2013 Here's my $0.02 worth.1971 240ZPhotos WoodWorkerB.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bvolken Posted February 6, 2013 Share #74 Posted February 6, 2013 1971 240Z I also started to document how these combo switches work electrically. They are really clever (which is part of their downfall) Inputs for improvement welcome. Datsun 240z multi function switches (in process) PhotosWoodWorkerB.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRT240 Posted August 29, 2015 Share #75 Posted August 29, 2015 I recently bought a reconditioned combo switch for my 72, It worked fine for a few weeks although stiff. Now the dash lights no longer come on. A little worrisome at night when you have to depend on the flow of traffic to adjust your speed! Any recommendations for businesses that rebuild these switches without cutting corners? Now I have two switches - one doesn't turn on the headlights and the other doesn't turn on the dash lights. I tried taking apart the one where the headlights no longer work and I noticed that some of the small copper like springs were missing - it came that way from rebuilders. Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop's Z Posted August 29, 2015 Share #76 Posted August 29, 2015 All the info you require is in this thread. Dave Irwin "zsondabrain" is a master rebuilder. He did mine and they work perfectly 3 years later. Cheers, Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted August 30, 2015 Share #77 Posted August 30, 2015 ^^^Yes, Contact Dave... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siteunseen Posted August 31, 2015 Share #78 Posted August 31, 2015 I took mine apart when the dash lights went out. Cleaned everything the best I could, flipped those two plates over and now everything is brighter. Here's a write up I found that was very useful, http://www.kamikazeracing.org/dl/ZTech/Rebuild_240Z_combo_switch.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zedyone_kenobi Posted February 21, 2017 Share #79 Posted February 21, 2017 What an amazing coincidence. Just last weekend I was leaving the car show at night and when I turned on my lights, I had no dash lights or running lights. Me thinks it I have a combo switch issue, as I cannot get any voltage to come back from the green and white wire back to the car. Headlights work, but they get constant power I think. Blinkers work, and flashers work. But no dash lights. I sent both my stalks to Dave the man Irwin. However playing with my turn signal, I noticed why my blinkers would never reset after I turned the wheel. The factory grease had hardened like syrup. I sprayed them off with WD40 and whala, the little spring activated plates got nice and snappy again. Dave will finish the job I am sure. My car was a 7/71. Never had an electrical issue with the car in 9 years. This is my first. This is one time I am glad my car has not been chopped to hell by a previous owner. Originality works in your favor here. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zedyone_kenobi Posted March 8, 2017 Share #80 Posted March 8, 2017 I sent my combo switch and my turn signal switch into DAve and the results were just beautiful. The finish was perfect, and the quality of wire and overwrap and connectors were better than I could have hoped for. I recently sent in my hazard switch so he could do that too. I had no idea the hazard switch was so critical to the wiring of the Z. I am going to go ahead and install his Parking Light harness to go with my Headlight harness as well. CAnnot hurt. Has anybody tried the MSA fusebox replacement? Are they really better than OEM and worth 200 bucks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Z Posted May 2, 2017 Share #81 Posted May 2, 2017 I sent my combo switch and my turn signal switch into DAve and the results were just beautiful. The finish was perfect, and the quality of wire and overwrap and connectors were better than I could have hoped for. I recently sent in my hazard switch so he could do that too. I had no idea the hazard switch was so critical to the wiring of the Z. I am going to go ahead and install his Parking Light harness to go with my Headlight harness as well. CAnnot hurt. Has anybody tried the MSA fusebox replacement? Are they really better than OEM and worth 200 bucks? Just to let you know, it is not that hard to take your existing fuse box and convert it yourself. I did mine for about $15 in parts. Phil Smith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop's Z Posted May 3, 2017 Share #82 Posted May 3, 2017 Phil, you can't just leave us hanging! Tell us how you did it, please. I would love to be able to do that changeover with modern fuses. Pics, please. Cheers, Mike 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Z Posted May 9, 2017 Share #83 Posted May 9, 2017 Phil, you can't just leave us hanging! Tell us how you did it, please. I would love to be able to do that changeover with modern fuses. Pics, please. Cheers, Mike Amazon, Amazon, Amazon - bought the fuse holders from Amazon. You need 10 and they have 10. $6.99. I think 1/2 inch long screws that fit through the holes in the fuse holder, washer and nut on the back side. Take photos of the wiring before removing it from the current holders. I popped out all of the holders while still attached to the wires. I took a Dremel wheel to cut through the plastic just wide enough to fit the fuse holders in place. The screw holes should line up with the holes that were left from the original fuse holders. Once all 10 are in place, then you can start soldering wire for wire to the terminals on the new fuse holder. The battery wire is the hardest to do because it has to connect to 3 of the fuse holders. Easiest way is to strip the wire long enough and tin it with solder before soldering to the 3 fuses. When you install the blade fuses you will still be able to use your fuse box cover. If you have serious melting of your current fuse holder, you will need fix that problem as well. Picture of the front side only and the fuse holders from Amazon.Phil Smith 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveJ Posted May 9, 2017 Share #84 Posted May 9, 2017 4 hours ago, Phil Z said: Amazon, Amazon, Amazon - bought the fuse holders from Amazon. You need 10 and they have 10. $6.99. I think 1/2 inch long screws that fit through the holes in the fuse holder, washer and nut on the back side. Take photos of the wiring before removing it from the current holders. I popped out all of the holders while still attached to the wires. I took a Dremel wheel to cut through the plastic just wide enough to fit the fuse holders in place. The screw holes should line up with the holes that were left from the original fuse holders. Once all 10 are in place, then you can start soldering wire for wire to the terminals on the new fuse holder. The battery wire is the hardest to do because it has to connect to 3 of the fuse holders. Easiest way is to strip the wire long enough and tin it with solder before soldering to the 3 fuses. When you install the blade fuses you will still be able to use your fuse box cover. If you have serious melting of your current fuse holder, you will need fix that problem as well. Picture of the front side only and the fuse holders from Amazon. Phil Smith Three posts and full of useful information. Welcome to the site. Thanks for the link. I've searched Amazon for fuse holders many times and don't recall seeing these puppies. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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