I need everyones input on this one (Combo and T/S switches)

[Pop's Z]

Thanks, Phil. The ingenuity here always amazes me. Where there's a will, there's a way...

Cheers, mike

[Phil Z]

Thanks, Phil. The ingenuity here always amazes me. Where there's a will, there's a way...
Cheers, mike

If you have any questions about anything not mentioned, let me know. Post pictures of your fuse box update.


Phil Smith

[Pat Carr]

I undertook this fuse box upgrade this weekend. I had ordered the fuse holders back when @Phil Z first posted this. Just now was motivated to do it. My fuse box had the typical melting of the parking light fuse. I installed an inline fuse pre-1980, and installed LEDs a few years ago to lower the current draw. My first step was to take photos of the existing wiring and also make a key to where each wire goes. Next I removed the fuse clips leaving a bare box, then repaired the hole from the melted fuse with JB Weld. Semi-ground down the JB Weld and coated it with black satin paint.

Like Phil I used a dremel to cut slots for the fuse holders. I cut the first one too wide, so after that cut them slightly smaller than needed and filed them to the right width. I had some 6/32-inch machine screws in my stash, some 3/8" long and some 1/2" long, and they were the correct diameter. Drilled out the holes as needed and installed the fuse holders and screws.

Nissan didn't leave any spare wire length, so I pried open the clamp holding the insulated part of the wire and cut off the old fuse holders to give me all the length I could get. To connect the source side of the fuse block where two wires were common, I tore apart an old plug and soldered those across the terminals. At the three common connectors the stock box has a screw terminal. To duplicate that I smashed an old duplex outlet and soldered the parts across the three terminals. Ugly but effective. I soldered the wires on, checked for continuity, and re-installed it in the car. So far everything works like it did before. As Phil said, the fuse box cover still fits.

Thanks to Phil for coming up with this upgrade.

[jalexquijano]

Recently after tuning both of my carbs on my 1972 240z, which carries both of Dave´s  headlight and dashboard light upgrades, all out of the sudden the dashboard / instrument lights, front and rear parking light and tail lights went out. I already checked the tail lights and the fuse box and the bulbs and fuses are ok. Where else shall i check before taking the steering column cover and checking the combo switch? The only thing that works are the headlights.

Edited December 26, 2017 by jalexquijano

[jpc3006]

Hi Zs-ondabrain,

I just installed your headlight and parking light upgrades today and since I had the steering column uncovered, I took some pictures for you. The car is a 1973 with a 01/73 build date. It has never been repaired or modified (until today) as I am the original owner. I hope this pics are useful

 

[Grubb240Z]

I will participate w/ photos & build date tonight when my kid gets home from school with it. In the meantime, I guess I have to give up on my turn signal switch and buy a new one. He's been driving around for months w/ no right signal and I don't think I can troubleshoot it. Cops in Irvine don't need a better excuse to pull over a teenager in a loud car!

I see listings like this one on Ebay. Restored turn signal switch for $199.99. Is this the going rate? I thought it seemed a bit high for the turn signal side, but I don't have much of a frame of reference. I'm OK if the switch I buy doesn't look good because mine was restored by @Zs-ondabrain and the lever looks great - I can swap them out, no problem. 

So if $200 is high for that switch, does anybody know of a better source, or have a switch themselves they want to sell?

[Zed Head]

If you have one turn signal it seems likely that you just have a dirty contact on the other one.  Can't remember exactly what they look like but they slide and wear and get grimy over time as the wheel is turned.  I think the contact point might be on the back of the wheel.  I have a 78 unit in the garage I can pull out and look at.

If you have one you should be able to get the other to work, I think.

[siteunseen]

This fixed mine.  I guess it was dirty like Zed says above but so far so good.  You could also check the bulb sockets to see if they are getting power.

[Zed Head]

The slidey thing might be the mechanical part that turns it off.  But it can keep the internal switch from staying on, if I recall right.  

I've hosed mine down with contact cleaner like site showed and it fixed it.  Both the dimmer and the signals.  They get gummed up.

[Grubb240Z]

Here y'go, Zs-ondabrain:

1972 w/ build date: 6/72

 

[jalexquijano]

What about the size and type of screw that goes through the steering wheel shroud and into the turn signal switch

[HusseinHolland]

Hmm... I was hoping this including documentation on the connector & terminal identification on the combination switch assembly.

I can't determine the manufacturer & type of spade used in the 9 pin housing, I've checked on Cycle Terminal & Eastern Beaver, not finding a match. I think it's the same as the radio connector?

I bypassed the housing for the parking light circuit, when I added the bridge to tie it to the warning buzzer. I thought I had the correct female spade, however the ones I have are the wrong form factor

EDIT - the Sumitomo MTW 110 (called Hitachi) series 'look' right - however the depth of the female spade is excessive & will not lock into the housing. I'll add a pic of the female if I can find where I dropped it in the garage. The difference is that it does not have that inner folded contact tang, it's a plain spade.

images taken from CorsaTechnic

Edited October 26, 2023 by HusseinHolland