i've got an AT 77 and the 4 speed is coming off a 78. is this everything i need for a direct bolt in? searched for an hour and couldn't find this exact swap

flywheel/bolts

clutch assembly

spacer plate

tranny

trans shifter and knob

driveshaft

trans mount & bracket

clutch/brake pedal assembly

clutch master/slave cylinders and hardlines

You will need a pilot bearing. Did the tranny come with the necessary linkage for the throwout bearing? You didn't mention either bearing. How about the linkage bushings? That's all I can think of , in additional to what you listed.

Gary

You don't need the spacer plate, it's for the automatic trans flexplate. Do you have the proper speedo cog to match your diff. ratio?

You will also need the inner boot and outer boot as well as the pleather boot. While you are at it, replace the shifter bushings. They are shot in most old Z cars.

You do need the full size engine plate instead of the half size one on the automatic (is that what you are calling the spacer plate?). Manual trans oil, rubber or SS clutch slave line to hard line. Good luck.

Oh, that plate. The mounting plate. I thought he was talking about the round spacer that goes on the crankshaft.

The hardline support rubbers and brackets to the firewall and the tab thats spot welded to the passenger frame rail . The auto cars have no clutch hardline support provisions from the master to the slave cylinder

Seems someone told me that, on the 240Z anyway, the wiring harness from the MT won't work on the AT. I can't say from personal experience, cause I haven't swapped to an Auto. Might be worth the investigation. I also know the 240z distributor was dual points on the AT. Can't say why the difference.

He's doing a 77 so it has electronic ignition. Also, he's going AT to manual, not the other way around. No one has mentioned either bypassing or eliminating the nuetral safety switch from the AT but that will have to be done also.

He also has to remove and block off the trans cooler lines to the radiator. I remember doing the neutral switch, but can't remember if it was just connecting the two harness wires together. The last time I did an A to M swap it was 22 years ago, so the details are a bit fuzzy.

You can do either. Connect the two wires together that goes to the switch or unplug the wire that goes to the inhibitor relay and run it directly to the starter. If you do the latter, it will circumvent the potential problem of a bad relay.

thanks for all the good info!