Need help Running lights and dash light issues!!

[Tkach]

So wiring with ez harness, I have a hot running to the green blue wire on the combo switch when switched it puts power to my green white wire which runs threw its stock locations IE the gauge's and then is spliced into the running lights. Note it is spliced into the red blue wire also running to the gauge's. I have a hot at the green blue wire when I turn on the circuit the fuse blows. So I took the dimmer switch out of the equation and still fuse blows as soon as I turn on the circuit. Headlights work however the dash lights and the running lights do not come on. Now I have in the past had the running lights working with a different wiring configuration however no dash lights. I am stuck here I'm not exactly sure how to trace this problem as immediately when receiving power the fuse blows. Any ideas????? Ive been trying to get this car back on the road for 3 years now and this is the current main issue keeping me from driving it please help!!!!!!!!!!

[Tkach]

btw its a 1975 280z

[Zs-ondabrain]

The only thing I can think of that would cause the instant blown fuses would be a direct short. Start checking the dash lights for ground problems or wires shorting out. One at a time.

[Tkach]

Sounds like a good start. I thought that all the dash lights grounded themselves out to the body of the gauge? maybe I have a blown light. I really want to get my car back on the road again but if it keeps this up it may take a trip to the crusher(i'm truly at the end of what I can take with this car 3 years and still stupid stuff like this keeps happening)

[Zs-ondabrain]

Yes, the base is grounded to the housing, that's your lights ground, but you need to make sure that the red/blue wire isn't grounded. Remove all the bulbs (dash lights) test the circuit again and if it blows the fuse, the problem is before the bulbs.

If the fuse does NOT blow, replace the bulbs back into there sockets, one at a time and watch the fuse. If the fuse blows apon inserting a bulb, that's your problem area.

One thing at a time, that's the best I can give you at the moment.

[Nissanman]

Electrickery can be very frustrating:tapemouth:tapemouth

What you need to do is attack the issues you have in a methodical way.

Be patient and you will get there.

Instead of blowing fuses, try clipping a 12V globe across the fuse contacts.

It will still protect the wiring from overload, gives a visual on short circuits and saves the fuses for another day.

The short may be as simple as a dash, park or brake globe inserted incorrectly or the wrong globe used.

e.g. a dual filament globe in a single filament socket or vice versa.

That can cause the supply and ground sides of the harness to be shorted together.

I suggest you remove all the globes, check the integrity of the test lamp [fuse] then replace the globes one by one.

You may have to undo some of the connections you have made to isolate the problem.

When doing projects like this, I find that it is necessary to do one wire at a time, test its' function, then move on to the next.

If you don't, then you have to go back to the beginning and do it one at a time, just like you should have:disappoin

The attachment shows you how to make a simple 12V test lamp.

With a few of these and a decent Multi Meter, you should be able to find your problems:devious:

[Tkach]

Thanks for the help guys hopefully tomarrow i will be able to start in on this issue. Great information.

[ktm]

The EZ wire kit is a piece of crap. I am rewiring a fellow Z-enthusiasts car with the EZ wire kit and the documentation, as well as the wires themselves, are crap. None of the wires have stripes; they only have solid color wires. They have multiple accessories, etc. with the same color wire, so you actually have to turn the wire around until you read the circuit.

Saying that commentary, I must disagree with Dave regarding the gauge grounding. The 240z gauges ground on the gauge housing, the 280z gauges ground through the RL (red-blue) wire. The RL wire goes to the rheostat from each of the dash lights, where it is then grounded.

F77ZCAR-WIRING.pdf

[Zs-ondabrain]

And that's why I work on 240Z's.......... Almost strictly. I figured the 280Z would do something like that. Oh well, good luck.

Dave.

[Tkach]

KTM I do agree with you about the short commings of the ezharness, My wiper power fuse block has no power. So If i disconnect the red blue wire from a hot and just ground out the open end that leaves, allowing the other end to connect to the dimmer I should have this problem licked!?

[ktm]

Tkach, the RL wire connects to the rheostat as does a black ground wire. By connecting the RL wire to a hot source, you are reversing the current. This is how you can blow things up.

Disconnect the RL wire from the hot source and ground it out to test the lights. I do not know which end of the RL wire you have connected to a hot source. If it is the rheostat end, grounding it should illuminate the lights assuming you have power on GW.

You are wiring up your car like you would a 240z. RL is the wire that carries power to the gauges which then ground out on the gauges. The RL wire first passes through the rheostat which then provides a reduce current to the gauge lights.

The 280z put the rheostat on the grounding circuit.

[Tkach]

I have the hot running into the oppisite end from the rheostat. Hopefully I can just remove the hot source and things will work. WOOOO Hoooo!