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Fuse box/headlight/charging problem


73_240z

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Hello,

I am new, both to the forum and z cars. I have a 1973 240z as far as I can tell (not worth much) a reasonably stock car. I am hoping someone can shed some light on this, so here is my problem:

1) Battery will not charge, replaced alt and volt reg still getting 13 volts at bat.

2) Headlights will not work, nor will dash lights. I suspect the switch or see #3

3) 2 fuses blocks on the fuse panel have no power. Here is the pic. I am missing the original fuse box cover so I am not sure what these two are (see pic) I have a feeling that they are all related.

Thanks for your help!!!!

post-17077-14150803526494_thumb.jpg

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Top right is the left headlight fuse,

second down on the right is the right headlight fuse

third down on the right is the parking light fuse.

Parking lights, dash lights and sidemarkers are all on the same circuit. Check your fusable links between the alternator and the engine harness, and inbetween the starter and the engine harness that plugs into the starter.

It's been 35 years, time to change the battery cables and clean ALL of the ground points.

Make sure your Combo (Headlight ) switch is actually switching. just use an ohms meter between the green/white and green/ blue for the parking lights.

Red/white? and white/red or black for the headlights.

That should give you something to do until someone else chimes in.

Welcome to the forum,

Dave.

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Disconnect the battery cable, and pull the fuse box loose. Turn it over and look for broken wires or bad solder joints. The Z cars are infamous for melted fuse boxes, often caused by loose clips, or bad connections on the back side generating enough heat to melt the plastic.

I had several bad crimps or solder joints on my fuse block. I ended up using inline fuse holders to replace the worst offenders, but there are better options since your fuse block is still mostly intact. At the least clean all the fuse holders and then tighten the connections by pulling out the fuses and squeezing the clips together.

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Ok, first thanks for the input!!!

I picked up a replacement (used) headlight switch this weekend at a swap meet and I now have power at the fuse, dash lights, side markers and taillights! So I think I will take the headlights out and check at that end. One problem at a time.

PS. does anyone have a listing off the fuse cover or a link so I know the approate fuse to put in?

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Thanks! thats perfect! So I have a dumb question, I have power to all three lead in the headlight conntector, yet when I plug in a headlight it does not turn on. I even went to the local AP store and bought new ones. Are all three prongs supposed to be hot?

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All three wires should NOT be hot. One should be a ground, one wire for low beam, and one wire for highbeam. Start off with some general troubleshooting. Check voltages when the lightswitch is off, on lowbeams, and when on highbeams. These will be your base to go from. The next step would be to check the switch itself. Unscrew the clamsheel on the column (total of 5 phillips screws) to get to the switch connectors (and switches themselves) Test for continuity and voltage through the switch.

Either you have a bad wire somewhere, or the switch is bad.

New switches on Ebay are $120+, used are $25-35. I have a couple extra switches. If yours is the culprit, message me.

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Sounds like you're missing the ground wire at the switch or the ground wire isn't plugged into the correct connector.

If you find it is the switch, I build completely rebuilt sets for $175 and warrantee my work. You won't find that on Ebay.

You should have one positive and 2 negatives at the headlight plug. Switch off=all three are grounds. Switch on= one positive and one neg. until you flip the Hi/Lo switch

Check the white Hi/Lo switch for a ground on the center terminal. If no ground, check for loose wires use an ohms meter to see if the switch is working.

Let me know if you need a set of rebuilt switches.

Dave

wolfin32z@yahoo.com

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