does anyone know what is that you weld in the differencial to make it positive tracion. and can this cause a problem. does anyone have a picture of how it looks were the welds go.i plan on doing it myself. or should i let a experience person do it.

Unless you plan to race, don't weld your differential. I doesn't make it "positive tracion" it locks it which is a pain for steet use..

does anyone know what is that you weld in the differencial to make it positive tracion. and can this cause a problem. does anyone have a picture of how it looks were the welds go.i plan on doing it myself. or should i let a experience person do it.

If you do decide to go with a solid rear axle, you want to weld the spider gears together. Blake is correct in saying, if you are using this as a street car you will find it a bit of a pain when turning....especially tight turns.

Tom

it is a street car. and i have also heard that it can be a pain in turns. then what is it mainly use for, drag, drifting.

Yes and yes. I have one out in the shed that was welded but I blew it up in my 510. I remember that the inner wheel would squeal on tight turns.

i plan on doing it myself. or should i let a experience person do it.

To weld a diff:

1. Clean, clean, clean, clean, and then clean some more.

2. Put two side axles in the diff and apply a little force in opposite directions on each to take up any slack.

3. Turn up the heat and wire feed and tack weld the spider gears to the side gears.

4. Remove the side axles.

5. Finish welding using a lot of filler wire trying to get good penetration and an even buildup of material. You don't want to unbalance the diff by having a lot more weld in one area.

6. Let it air cool and then wire brush everything.

7. Put the diff back in the housing.

I've had a welded diff for years, and never broken it. I used to break a lot of driveshafts though. carry spares. (I now have a R200 and that doesn't break driveshafts)

From my experience, just welding the gears together is not very strong.

what I do is cut a small piece of steel (maybe 3-4mm thick) that fits in between the planetary gears, and then weld that on on 4 sides. the steel plates brace the gears together and prevent them from turning, so the welds themselves are not carrying all the load. one of them on each side of the diff and you'll never break it.

A Detroit Locker or Torsen Gleason might be a better choice rather than welding your diff.

Hi Guys,

I have a 3.9 R200 diff in my 260z and it is fitted with a Phantom Grip LSD that I got from the USA. Works like a Detroit Locker in a straight line and a LSD around corners. It's been in the car now for 2 years and works like a charm. Check their website for prices. Regards David.

Tire wear will most likely increase on welded diff. Why not buy an extra diff and install it with an LSD.

A Detroit Locker or Torsen Gleason might be a better choice rather than welding your diff.

if we could all afford detroit lockers, we wouldnt need to weld our diffs:laugh:

Nice zombie post Mr Z. Since we're here...

I have a 3.9 R200 diff in my 260z and it is fitted with a Phantom Grip LSD that I got from the USA. Works like a Detroit Locker in a straight line and a LSD around corners. It's been in the car now for 2 years and works like a charm. Check their website for prices. Regards David.

I know this is an old comment, but a phantom grip does not work like a detroit locker. It works like a (weak) limited slip.