Crankcase Vent Tube Removal???

[SSuspect]

Hi all,

I am almost ready (still need to set up the SU's) to drop the '83ZX L28 into the 240, but had a question about the vent tube.

The L28 tube is capped at the end with a smaller tube sticking out from the side. The 240 tube is open at the end and has a small tube coming from it. They are obviously different and the L28 tube gets in the way of the carburetor heat shield.

I need to swap these out, but have no clue how to remove them. I do not want to damage them in the process. Can somebody give me a few pointers?

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks!

Tim

[rxsleeper]

I am by no means an expert, On my Z's the fitment has been simply a friction fit into the block. IIRC, I used a pair of channel lock pliers and carefully rotated the metal vent tube to remove it from the block.

[Mitchka]

Isn't it just a rubber hose with a clampless seal? I know some people put clamps on them, but a new tube usually eliminates the need for a clamp.

[SSuspect]

I am by no means an expert, On my Z's the fitment has been simply a friction fit into the block. IIRC, I used a pair of channel lock pliers and carefully rotated the metal vent tube to remove it from the block.

Isn't it just a rubber hose with a clampless seal? I know some people put clamps on them, but a new tube usually eliminates the need for a clamp.

Thanks guys - I think that rxsleeper has it...

Here is a pic of the tube I am referring to. This is the L28.

I will try to mess with it tonight when I get home. Any other feedback is appreciated!

Tim

[sblake01]

Same thing as rxsleeper says except I use robo grip plier with rubber 'robo guards' over the teeth to avoid scraping the tube or whatever I'm trying to remove.

[SSuspect]

Same thing as rxsleeper says except I use robo grip plier with rubber 'robo guards' over the teeth to avoid scraping the tube or whatever I'm trying to remove.

Perfect - Thanks for the confirmation Stephen! I'll post an update when I get it successfully swapped over.

Thanks again!

Tim

[geezer]

This L24 tube was removed with nothing more than my hand ( might have been previously removed?). When refitting clean the mating surfaces well and use a high temp sealant such as used on frost plugs, to help prevent leakage or loosening.

[sblake01]

I tap the mounting end opening with a tapered cylindrical wedge to make sure it's not out of round and then it fits tightly without the need for sealant.

[geezer]

I tap the mounting end opening with a tapered cylindrical wedge to make sure it's not out of round and then it fits tightly without the need for sealant.

I can't speak for the L28 tube but that wouldn't work on the L24 example in my pic Stephen. The first 1/4" of the leading end is actually a much smaller diameter than the rest of the tube, including the mating surface, so using a tapered cylindrical wedge would only serve to straighten a damaged end. As far as using sealant, an ounce of prevention...is worth not having a unsightly streak of oil that has run down the side of a newly detailed block. Any reputable shop I have ever dealt with would use it.

[SSuspect]

Thanks guys! I have no fear of sealant! (and my L24 tube looks just like the one posted above)

This is going on a 100k plus engine, and I would like to avoid any additional leaks. It had a broken valve cover bolt and from the looks of it, it had been broken for a LONG time - this thing was a MESS. The engine is VERY clean now. I hope it stays that way!

Again - I'll report the results once I am done.

Thanks again!

Tim

[SSuspect]

Done deal! Very simple and straight forward. Both tubes were pretty tight, but came loose with some effort. Used some good sealer putting it back in. Will let the sealer dry until tomorrow and paint it up to match the rest of the block. WooHoo - one less thing to worry about! A little closer every day.

Thanks again to all for the info!

Tim