How to deal with Hatch Compartment Rust?

[mikewags]

Today I began the mission of cleaning the hatch floor area. After removing the spare tire, i found what looks to be like the most rust my car has (could be worse) ... I scrubbed the area clean with a semi-wet sponge; including some of the rusty residue off. I know a wet sponge isn't exactly the best idea vs. rust; although I just wanted to get the area cleaned up a bit before I proceeded to deal with the rust. From the look, I think its just bad surface rust...it doesn't really rust through completely.

My question...

What would be the best way to tackle rust like this? Would you suggest grinding it off, then painting over it; or do they make good rust removing chemicals that won't wreak havoc on my paint?

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a369/mikewags/Car/hatch2.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a369/mikewags/Car/hatch.jpg

[hls30.com]

Your links don't work! Photo moved or Deleted...

There are many rust eating/converting chemicals Metal Ready, Ospho, Naval Jelly, etc.

If it hasn't perferated the sheet metal, I would suggest a rust eating product and then a suitable sealer.

Will

[mikewags]

The links should work now...

[MEZZZ]

I would suggest buying a product called POR-15. I bought mine on Ebay. The only thing is it is meant to go on bare metal, meaning you would have to strip the spare tire area using a wire wheel on a drill or the sort. Once you do that, use the marine clean, then metal ready, then the paint. Stuff is hard as nails and should prevent any further problems. I bought the 3 part "sample" kit (pint of each) for about $20 bucks, would be a great size for what you need to do.

[TomoHawk]

I saw some POR products at the NAPA store in quart cans...

[Sailor Bob]

I believe that POR stands for "Paint Over Rust", that being said ... Hmmm there's really not much else to say, but I will anyway

My personal experience was to remove flaking and loose rust with a wire brush and paint right over it - worked great.

I don't believe that you need to take the chance of passing right through the floor by using excessive force just to remove all hints of rust as this is designed to seal the surface without having to entirely strip it. The Marine clean is a degreaser/cleaner - marketing.

[mikewags]

Thanks guys. I will try that out this weekend, removing the rust with a drill-wire brush; cleaning it up, then applying the POR paint. I'm not too concerned with the mis-match in paint (I assume POR is like a primer color) - I just want to make sure the rust is gone, so it doesn't cause any further corrosion.

[EScanlon]

You can get POR in Black, Silver or "Clear" (which ends up being kind of milky white, unless exposed to UV rays, in which it turns kind of greenish).

Before you begin wire brushing, remove the tar mat. Otherwise you will NOT be removing or addressing all the rust that's hidden underneath that tar. Voice of Experience here. Trust me, in that area, it can be like an iceberg... 2/3 hidden.

Once you remove the tar mat, then either wire brushing, or Scotch pad disk clean up will clean it up enough to proceed.

Since you're planning on using the POR, do all 3 steps as they instruct: Marine Clean, Metal Prep and lastly the POR.

While Marine Clean may be "just" a degreaser do NOT use it without gloves. You will leach out every last bit of oil in your fingertips and you will find your skin cracking and feeling as if you "numbed" it. Again, VOE here.

The Metal Prep is a phosphoric acid with some other ingredients added in. This is probably the most critical for proper adhesion to bare metal, and rusted metal. If you're painting POR over painted surfaces, be sure to scuff them up well, or you'll find that the POR WILL act like a decal on the painted surface. It won't peel up off the metal, but it WILL peel off the paint. VOE.

When you paint the POR, don't just use a dust mask. Use a paint respirator, the ones with the carbon canister filters. When they recommend that you have plenty of air movement, the're not just suggesting. This isn't just a hint, it's a huge WARNING. Have I said VOE before?

HTH

E

[beandip]

I have used quite a lot of POR and I agree with EScanlon . If you are only doing the spare tire tub and have good ventilation you wont have any problem with the fumes. It is a different thing if you were doing a large area or spraying it on. You will find the paint will flow out when brushed on to the point that it looks like it was sprayed on. If you wish to spray the car color over the POR do it BEFORE it cures when it is still a little tacky , this way the color paint will bond. If you are going to apply POR over a painted surface , like was already said scuff it off first like you would for any other paint. However treat he whole area to be covered with POR paint with the marine clean and metal ready following the directions on the can. It loves skin and becomes permanent when allowed to cure. If you don't take it off right away it will have to wear off your skin. Trust me on that. I disagree with Sailor Bob on the Marine clean being just a degreaser. It will etch aluminum so don't use it on polished aluminum parts as a cleaner/degreaser. It has more in it than just a cleaner. Again experience. The tester kit should be plenty for the job shown. Gary

[mikewags]

So you think theres more rust under the tar mat?

Would you suggest replacing the mat when all is said and done?

[EScanlon]

I'd almost bet that you'll find some rust under that tar mat in the spare tire bin.

As far as replacing it, I did. After I had painted the POR everywhere.

While POR is good for rust-protection and encapsulation, it doesn't do much as far as sound attenuation, which is what the tar mat is mostly for.

2¢

E

[mikewags]

BUMP* This is what i've done today to the spare tire well.

First I removed the tar paper.

Sanded with a drill-wire brush. Got the metal pretty bare, then prepped the well with newspaper and tape. Covered with the rust spray paint. One solid coat, looks much better. Painted only half down the well.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a369/mikewags/Car/sparefixed2.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a369/mikewags/Car/sparefixed.jpg

Considering replacing the matt, (btw: luckily there wasn't any rust under it) ...

Any idea where I can get one? It just seemed like tacky tar paper. Would there be better sound dampening material I can lay in there?