1st Time Z buyer needs advice

[stevef1972z]

Z people I need some help.

I have never owned a Z car before. In the past I have owned several British sports cars and American muscle but never a Z. The recent rise in fuel costs has me looking to get rid of my 450 hp 1979 Z28 T Top Camaro in favor of a 1972 240Z.

I located a likely car, with excellent straight body, fair interior and what seems to be solid mechanical systems. The car starts and idles fine. Slight backfire when excellerating but it wasnt really warmed up much and had been sitting for about 6 months. Oil is clean, carbs are clean, and the underhood looks mostly unmolested. Floor pans are solid, no visible body bubble rust on an older paint job.

The problems I have found are interior trim, headlights and dash lights that do not work (marker lights, brake and turn signals all work), near break through on the upper radiator hose from rubbing agaisnt the idler pulley for the single belt. Other than that, the wipers move very very slowly, but everything else checks out solid.

Are there hidden areas that I should be looking? I know that floorboards and wheel arches are rust prone on any car but what about the Z? What should I look for under the hood? Clutch issues on these cars? Is the 4 speed a solid unit that I can trust?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for reading a long first post, I just dont want to buy a yellow 1972 4 speed lemon!

[xray]

Usual suspects apply, as with any older steel-framed car...floorpans (UNDER the sound deadener) rear wheel arch and leading edge of lower rear wheelwell (dogleg area), trailing edge of lower front fenders, battery tray area, frame rails, rear hatch sill area...

4-speeds are pretty reliable. No real clutch issues (low HP) unless driven by someone who isnt good on a clutch. Engine lower end is pretty stout, top end may require re-do (esp. the early cars with soft valve seats meant for leaded fuel). Mechanically straightforward, but not without some idiosyncracies.

Pics? Many good projects can be had for under 5k, so don't jump on it unless it's really a good foundation.

Good luck!

[Carl Beck]

Mileage on the car?

Owner History Known or not?

Original color still in place?

Dash cracked or not?

Clutch is good for 60K miles at least - depends on type of driving - city/highway? It is very large for the size of the engine.

72 4spd - good for 120K to 150K mies easy -if driven correctly. Rebuild costs around $550.00 most area's of the country - if you have the tranny out.

Shifter busings go out-usually with age. Easy fix if the shifter feels sloppy

Original Factory paint on firewall and front shocktowers will peel - due to galvin. sheet metal used there.

Pictures????

FWIW,

Carl B.

[240znz]

Wipers being slow is probably because the wiper pivot rubber boot is gone. Water enters and causes the pivot to corrode and bind. It will need removing, cleaning, greasing and new rubber boots. Cost is only in boots ($5), removing the wiper arms is a small PITA.

[Friar-Tuck]

This website has a few f.a.q. and fixes kind of built into the short story/build-up.

http://datsunzgarage.com/

Tuck \o/