Cam timing sprocket install

[stevef1972z]

Need help here rather badly. See engine and drivetrain post for the whole story. But the short part is, how hard is it to get the cam sprocket and timing chain back on the head if nothing moved during a head gasket swap? I cannot seem to get the parts to line up, there is about a 1/8th in. too short. I am guessing that I have made more work for myself because the timing chain tensioner somehow moved during the head removal. if so I have a problem and have to tear down the whole front of the engine. Am i missing something simple? the chain and sprocket line up properly, marks are correct I even maked three seperate locations with paint dots to make sure I realigned everything correctly, just cant get the sprocket to move high enough to line up on the cam for install.

Help please

[MikeW]

Yes, the tensioner likely slipped a bit. Don't try to force the sprocket onto the shaft. I did that once and ended up with bent exhaust valves. Taking the front cover off to reset the tensioner is the proper thing to do.

[RogerZ]

common problem. after the fact you need to put a piece of wood down there to keep the tensioner in place. There are some posts from someone who says you can get it back in there with a couple of long thin screwdrivers. I had no luck trying that but give it a shot. Otherwise pull the radiator pull the cover pull the fan. bite the bullet. smack yourself in the forehead saying why didn't I read the post first.

[Diseazd]

Taking the cover off is the very last resort...........The tensioner cannot come out but so far if your wood block is installed. While you are holding the sprocket (with dowel pin hole just below the dowel pin on cam) get a buddy to put a long screwdriver etc. through one of the upper pulley holes. Rest one end somewhere safe on the head and pry the pulley up till it slides in the dowell. No major force should be required. What has happened is the chain has slackened slightly to allow a small movement in tensioner piston. The pry bar will tighen the chain causes a retreat of the piston and the cam sprocket will slide right on! Then drink an ice cold beer! Guy (we've all been there)

[MikeW]

While you are holding the sprocket (with dowel pin hole just below the dowel pin on cam) get a buddy to put a long screwdriver etc. through one of the upper pulley holes. Rest one end somewhere safe on the head and pry the pulley up till it slides in the dowell. No major force should be required.

That's exactly what I did years ago. Perhaps in my case the tensioner came out too far and I had to use too much force but the end result was a tensioner that broke a few weeks later causing the chain to slip. Someone who's never done this before might not have a feel for how much leverage is acceptable and how much is too much.

[Diseazd]

If he installed the wood block properly and only lacks 1/8 inch and everything has stayed the same , slight pressure on the cam sprocket should solve the problem. It's certainly worth a try!

[stevef1972z]

I had the block of wood as described in forums here and in the Haynes manual in place. It did hold everything tightly in place, apparently about an 1/8th in tightly! I put tension on the chain to keep it from slipping and then removed the wooden shim. with the shim removed, i was able to thin it down a bit more on the end that goes down between the chain sides. Once in place, I wiggled it down and let the wedge effect push the tensioner back into place. Removing the wedge slightly I had no problem getting the sprocket back on the cam. Tonight after work I will start replacing the rest of the components, I should (fingers crossed) be back on the road Saturday morning. One week since I bought the car and blew the headgasket on the way home. Keep your fingers crossed and thanks for the help.

[Diseazd]

Now have a cold brew!

[MikeW]

Once in place, I wiggled it down and let the wedge effect push the tensioner back into place. Removing the wedge slightly I had no problem getting the sprocket back on the cam.

Good work!! That's a lot better than forcing it. Had you used leverage to get the sprocket back on and even if it seemed to work fine you'd always have that in the back of your mind wondering if it would cause a problem down the road.

[stevef1972z]

Everything is getting re installed today. Got the manifolds and lines back on, and started on the AC brackets. Gasket sealer is drying, should have start up about an hour and a half after I get off work today. Hope it runs ok and no white smoke out the tailpipe! The little time I spent with the car last week was enjoyable before the headgasket let go. Really looking forward to learning about this car! and driving it for a change!

[sblake01]

I made my own chain wedge by tracing a plastic one that a friend had bought from Motorsport (I think) on to a piece of wood and cutting it out with spiral saw. Never had a problem with it.

[stevef1972z]

Everything is back on and she runs like a sweing machine! I am very happy the head checked out fine. Got the little beastie back together and its not making milkshakes out of the oil and not smoking. Oil is clean and engine smooth.

Now it has a new problem, the brakes in the rear are dragging. It does it after several miles, 2 or 3 miles and the brake light starts to flicker and it starts to drag the rear brakes. By the 4th mile the light is on full bore and there is little free wheeling...my guess is the parking brake pieces hanging up. Anything I should know about this?