I used he B-quiet Ultimate also. two 50' rolls. that is 100 sq ft. I did all including the cowl and firewall, all the way back to the tail lights. I did the backs of the plastic trim panels and inside the doors . I did the fenders up above the rear wheels and the cavity where he evap tank and the antenna. Inside the spare tire tub and tool boxes. I did not do the roof. As Mike says it is easy to apply , there is no smell. It has been on my Z for 5 years and I couldn't be more happy. As a side, it is much less cost . This is not why I went with the product.

Gary

I recently did my 240 with Dynamat Extreme. Initially I bought 1 bulk pack (9 sheets, 18" x 32"). That did the tunnel (sides, top and under heater core) and all the floor on both sides from the firewall to the cargo area and inside the left and right 3/4 panels in the cargo area.

If you are going to do the cargo floor and the doors I would say you need 2 bulk packs and you might have some left over.

Warren

I assure you dynamat isn't twice as much just b/c of the name. It seems as if everyone is only concerned with cost. I don't cut corners with anything on my cars. If it's twice as much it just means it takes me twice as long to finish and save money.

Same with tools. Buy the cheap stuff and it doesn't work as well and will most likely break. Just my $.02 from having to re-do many projects after going the "cheap" route back in the day

I assure you dynamat isn't twice as much just b/c of the name.

It might be useful for you to cite some real information, in terms of what leads you to think so. Have you used both? Have you seen independent tests?

I have used B-Quiet in my Z. I used Dynamat in my 510, and I can't really tell the difference. To me, it's like the difference between Crest and Ultrabrite toothpaste, you know what I mean? They both work, but one has a fancy box and the other one doesn't.

It might be useful for you to cite some real information, in terms of what leads you to think so. Have you used both? Have you seen independent tests?

I have used B-Quiet in my Z. I used Dynamat in my 510, and I can't really tell the difference. To me, it's like the difference between Crest and Ultrabrite toothpaste, you know what I mean? They both work, but one has a fancy box and the other one doesn't.

Thats why I posted this link, it is the best reference by far I have found in my searches on this subject. I doubt you will find a more comprehensive test on the web. http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

On the cheap tool issue, it depends on the job I am buying it for. I bought a heat gun from Harbor Freight for $5.99. I'm sure its not the same quality as a Craftsman for 4 times the price, but for the couple times I might need to use it, it makes sense. BTW, it worked great

Any tips on removing the complete dash?

Is this a major hassle? I figured it would be best to sound proof the firewall, since the engine is right in front of it...

Thanks!

Any tips on removing the complete dash?

Is this a major hassle? I figured it would be best to sound proof the firewall, since the engine is right in front of it...

Thanks!

I know Ive read into this on here before, it looked a bit more than I was willing to bite off

Here are some links

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6981

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4429

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7291

i know this thread is kinda old but secondskin damplifier prois the best stuff to use imo, its thicker than anything else available. I used it for sound deadning my other car and it gives luxury car noise reduction. I haven't used any on the z but i've had good results with Frost King duct insulation also but i would put that over the damplifier.

http://www.secondskinaudio.com/

I am considering doing this to my car too. How much weight does it add?

Steve

I bought 30 feet of the Edead material (dynamat basically) - it weighed 10 lbs. So i'd say anywhere from 10 - 20lbs for the whole car? (roof/doors/floorpan/cargo area) etc. Depends how many layers you put down.

I actually decided on passing on sound deadening, and returned the stuff to the company for a refund. The amount of time, effort, and general mess of the tacky sound paper was just too much for me.

i used eDead before on my other car for trunk work and its not that good, it has mylar backing and doesn't stick too good, it also peels off in extreme temps so for the people out west and down south i wouldn't reccomend it....but also for people in cold areas because it peels in cold temps too. It also leaves sticky residue all over the panels and your hands.

I don't want to sound like I work for them but the secondskin stuff is the best hands down, if you don't want to spend the money the only other products would be RAAmat or the stuff from Cascade Audio but its almost the same price.

Here is what i was doing on my other car before someone crashed into me on friday.

http://www.secondskinaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4274

It'd be worth it and really easy to apply deadner to the Z because there are alot of flat spaces its only annoying when you have to work w/ alot of contours, i'd do mine but i'd have to kill ALL the rust first . But depending on how much you want to deaden it 160sq ft is close to 70lbs. I used 80 for a hyundai elantra and didn't cover everything and did 2 layers in the trunk. So I think maybe 100sqft would do a 280z

Edited September 8, 200816 yr by Cornbreadxd

I bought 30 feet of the Edead material (dynamat basically) - it weighed 10 lbs. So i'd say anywhere from 10 - 20lbs for the whole car? (roof/doors/floorpan/cargo area) etc. Depends how many layers you put down.

I actually decided on passing on sound deadening, and returned the stuff to the company for a refund. The amount of time, effort, and general mess of the tacky sound paper was just too much for me.

Thanks, I was concerned that I'd have to add a lot of weight to the car but it sounds like my concerns were unfounded.

Steve