Anyone know if there's a way to replace just the injector connectors on the harness or do I have to snake the whole thing out and replace the entire harness? I have 2 cracked female side connectors and neither will stay on solidly. Thanks!!

You can just buy replacement connectors and cut the old ones off and solder and shrink wrap the new ones on. There's a few threads on replacing them and upgrading to better connectors. This one talks about the different connectors and even show my learning curve on the since the thread is a couple of years old. I've got it down to an exact science now.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22929

You're my hero! I have access to a harness, just wasn't looking forward to yanking it out and replacing it.

I used connectors from a BMW because they had the squeeze clips on them.

I think the read the thread.

Rather than soldering on new connectors, is it possible to splice in replacements? It doesn't look like resistance is a factor in the circuitry and polarity can be kept straight. I've seen my soldering and think using staggered small barrel splices would give me a better result. I'm not looking for true restoration here, just a reliable daily driver.

Everything I have read on replacing the wire connectors say to solder. I just replaced mine a week or so ago and it wasnt that bad. The most common mistake with soldering is people try to use the iron to melt the solder. Use flux to clean the connection, place the tip of the gun on the wire and hold it there about a minute, then touch the solder to the wire, not the tip of the iron.

Rather than soldering on new connectors, is it possible to splice in replacements? It doesn't look like resistance is a factor in the circuitry and polarity can be kept straight. I've seen my soldering and think using staggered small barrel splices would give me a better result. I'm not looking for true restoration here, just a reliable daily driver.

You can do it that way, and it will work, I just prefer not to. The polarity can be kept straight though it's not an issue since all the connector does is complete a ground. All you'd have to do is note which of the two wires for the connector goes to which side before you cut the old one off and solder or crimp the new on the same way. I use a 'helping hands' tool, which holds the wires being soldered in position, a soldering gun rather than an iron, and 60/40 rosin core solder. I only flow enough solder to keep the wires together. In that way, the solder is no thicker than the insulation. Once they are shrinkwrapped and under the boot, as shown in that thread, you can't see any of the splices.