Zedd Findings front frame rails

[Seppi72]

I have finally embarked on the journey of rebuilding my '72 (HLS30-46372) after way too many years of procrastinating. I am the original owner, so the sentimental outweighs the practical in this project - just so you all know. I have the funds available to proceed with the project and I know that I'll most likely be "upside down" financially on the car when finished. As I said, the sentimental prevails here. My wife and I both understand that S30s are my mid-life crisis response. Considering all the other options, that's not too bad.

The car is presently stripped and the shell is resting on a rotisserie that I bought from Kevin Mack (in Texas) several years ago. I'll get some pix posted after this weekend.

I have a good friend - who is a highly-experienced body man - to do most of the "heavy lifting" as far as welding is concerned. For now, let's just say that the car will need:

* replacement floor pans

* replacement outer rear wheel housings

* replacement rear wheel arches

* repair of doubler plate rust-through in front wheel wells

* repair of front frame rail rust-through

From the forum, I well understand the work that will be needed to take care of the first four items. It is the front frame rail damage that is troubling me. There is so much rust-through on the passenger rail that I think it needs to be completely replaced rather than simply try to patch the obviously bad areas. The driver side rail doesn't seem to be as bad, but sand blasting will tell the story there.

I would buy the replacement rails (and floor pans) from Charlie Osborne at Zedd Findings. I'm trying to decide whether to use Charlie's floor pan rails or go with John Jeffery's Bad Dog Parts rails, which look a lot "beefier." But that's getting ahead of myself.

For now, I'd like to know if anyone has ever replaced the front frame rails using Charlie's parts. If so, there are quite a few questions that I'd like to get answered. For starters:

* How do you adequately support the shell during removal of this critical structural element?

* How do you guarantee accurate repositioning on the T/C rod support bracket?

I want to photodocument the various repair processes and place them on the site's tech article file for future reference.

[MEZZZ]

Good luck from another Ohioan!

I understand about the mid-life crisis thing. First, I bought a Harley at 43 and my wife was supportive, until she noticed the amount of time I spent reworking it. It was 2 years old when I bought it and bone stock and in great condition. It started innocent enough, a chrome piece here and there, before I knew it, and several thousand later, I got bored with it. I sold it and bought my 5 yr old a 60 unch Sony Hi Def TV he was jonesing for.

Then I realized I wanted a Z. At first my wife protested, until I got her the Jacuzzi she always wanted. That paved the way and she said ok, but remember this is to be a hobby and not an obsession...yeah right

Anyway, I bought a frame rail from John at Bad Dog. I have a '77 so mine is different but I can attest to the quality of it. Very impressed with it overall, nice and beefy as you say and John was a great guy to deal with.

Good luck with your rebuild, sounds like you will have your ahnds full for awhile.

[bj2348]

Guys,

I'm in Centerville (South of Dayton) and I have my 72 on a body cart I made similar to Steve's (he's near the gambling boats in Southern Indiana)

http://picasaweb.google.com/78zlt1/Datsun/photo#5128820414010825426

Once the car is sitting on the rockers and properly leveled you can start measure, then measure again compare to the 240 crash reference jpg from here:

http://www.zclub.net/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=4318&ppuser=2472

I'm starting a new passenger side firewall (battery box), Zedd floorpans and finishing with Bad Dog rails.

After that she goes up on the $200 Harbor Freight Rotis.

Jay

[26th-Z]

The factory service manuals have measurements also. Support the car and level it as best you can on the rocker jacking points and the mustache bar mounting points. Bolt the transmission mount crossbar into the tunnel to keep it straight. I bolted up the sway bar to begin aligning the frame rail and from there, I took measurements.

[MEZZZ]

Didnt know there were so many Buckeyes on here! I would love to do a rotissirie job but lack the skills and the time to learn them. Maybe some day after we get these things roadworthy we can do a little ClassicZCar Ohio meet.

Mine is running as of today and soon will be going to the welder to have the door molding rivet holes welded shut, a patch on the pass. floor taken care of along with the Bad Dog rail. I found an area on the rail about 1/2 inch and quickly opened it up with a finger. I was going to get rails for both sides but John from Bad Dog said if it passed the screwdriver test to save my $ on the 2nd rail.

Hopefully, in the next couple weeks I can get the welding taken care of and then finish off the interior.