I can't loosen the metal hoses connected to the bottom of the old master cyl. I have wasted a bottle of WD-40 and most of the skin on my hands trying.

Rather not use a torch (don't ask) but any other thoughts?

if there that bad you would have to buy to new lines going from the mc to the valve but there only maybe a 18 inches long and would cost a measely 5 dollars

just cut as close to the nut as you can but the mc and the proportioning valve. then use a 6 point socket to remove the nuts.

this way you can also sit the mc in a vice, if you dont have a set already i would suggest gettng a good set of line wrenches.

kobalt makes a quality set and are of better quality and price to me then craftsman

me personally i never liked wd-40. if you can find it in your neighborhood see if you have pb blaster. its the best

I do hope you are using a 10mm line wrench. If you can't break it loose with that, well, the heat won't hurt it a bit. Just don't get too carried away with the torch. :cross-eye

They do get a lot of rust and corrosion on the bottom of the master cylinders so you aren't the only one who has had a stubborn one. But, if you are not using a line wrench , get one, they are well worth the little extra that they cost. If you don't know what a line wrench is it is basically a box end wrench with a slot in it to allow you to slip it over the line and then down onto the flare nut. They will allow you to put a lot more pressure on the fitting without worrying about rounding it off. Round it off and you'll be very :disappoin :stupid:

Nope, using a plain old Craftsman wrench. Will try to find a line wrench at the store. Thanks a ton for the advice. May get new lines, too. (GRIN)

BTW, the line wrench will also come in handy when you find a stubbornly rusted bleeder screw. You will twist one off in a heart beat with a regular wrench, but using the line wrench 99 times out of 100 they will come loose. You apply pressure around the whole fitting instead of just on one side. Twisting a bleeder off can ruin your day very quickly, especially on the rear wheel cylinders. :tapemouth

i HAVE FOUND THAT YOU CAN LOCK A SET OF GOOD VICE GRIPS ONTO THEM AND WHACK THE WRENCH, LIKE YOU WOULD A STRIKER BAR, they will almost always let go.... Sorry about the caps... anyway this will almost always get the fittings loose... Of course like noted above, you will have to replace them after this process is complete. I would resist using heat on components that have fluids in them... The result could be undesirable.... Heat is not good for seals, or your head if you achieve a boiling point.

Well, using heat won't hurt the master if you are taking the lines off to replace the master cylinder in the first place. Just don't get over zealous with it. I think with a line wrench you may find you may not need it anyways. Heat is usually the last resort anyways.... or should be.....

I have used vicegirps in this same situation and had it work for me . Like was stated before the line wrench is the way to go first then , using vice grips means most likely a new line is in order.

Forget WD-40. That stuff rarely works. Buy some Kroil. This stuff is really amazing. I have used it on really rusted bolts, like on an exhaust down pipe and they loosen right up if you let it sit overnight.

I liked it so much, I bought a gallon of it!

Here is there website: http://www.kanolabs.com/

Good luck,

Marty