brake pedal pumping required

[TomoHawk]

I can stop in the 280Z, but I would like a firmer brake pedal feel. First pump goes in partway to start braking. Second pump is better, but thethird pump grabs right away. What things do you need to check?

[2ManyZs]

First thing you need to do is check the wheel cylinders and calipers for any leaks.

Second, bleed the brakes, you may have contaminated fluid.

If that doesn't help, you probably need a new master cylinder.

While you are checking for any leaks, it would be wise to check your pads and shoes at the same time, make sure you have no mechanical problems, such as a seized e-brake cable that is not working the rear adjusters. It could be your rear brakes are so far out of adjustment they may be causing part of the problem. One way to check this is to pull up on the e-brake handle a couple clicks, if the brakes and brake pedal feel better, you need to check your rear shoes and/or re-adjust the rear brakes.

Usually having to pump the brakes is because of air or water contaminated fluid.

One of the above is more than likely the problem, just need to try one thing at a time to find out the cause.

[TomoHawk]

I had a brake system flush and had a slightly firmer feel, but still need to pump twice to get a hard pedal. I 'm thinking that the M.C. has a bad rubber in it, like everything else that'srubber on the car (78 280Z from Fla).

Same advice? I will probably replace the M.C. next.

[seerex]

honestly for the money I would do both master and slave why you are in there , we replaced the mc on my 240 and brothers 260 and shortly after the sc went bad , almost to spite us , good luck Jeff:geek:

[Ed]

that the brake fluid is corrosive. If you spill any fluid on your car flush with plenty of water otherwise your paint will peel off.

[2ManyZs]

Before you buy a new master, try bleeding the master again. It's possible there is still air in the system that wasn't bled out. Of course, it wouldn't hurt to bleed all the wheel cylinders and calipers after bleeding the master cylinder.

If, after that, you still have a mushy pedal, then the master is definately the problem. No sense spending money on a new master unless it's really necessary.