Single Stage Paint Questions

[CanadianGTR]

I tried a quick search and didn't turn much up regarding single stage paints.

I know my second question is pretty much paint specific and I'll probably need to ask the shop mixing it, but the rest I'm still kind of stuck on.

First I would like to mention that yes, I am aware of the benefits of BC/CC over a single stage paint, but the rest of the car is single stage and I'm just touching up my rear end. I'll be using RM paint since they had the colour that best matched what's on there now (when they over-layed the chip on my paint I couldn't even tell it was there).

First question.

I'll be using a metallic paint, and since you aren't supposed to wet-sand a metallic, and you can't clear a single stage until the paint is 150% cured... how do I finish it off? Some polishing/cutting compound and a orbital buffer?

Second question.

Since you can't wet sand in between coats, I assume you have to spray a second coat pretty close to the tack/flash time of the paint. What sort of time frame would I have to shoot more coats? I know this is fairly dependent on the type of paint and how it's mixed, but there must be a ROUGH time-frame.

Third question.

How do you feather in edges over existing paint without wet sanding, will a buffing/cutting compound do the trick?

My body shop guru is home sick today and I'm impatient for answers. If I figure any of these out before they're answered I'll post up what I find if anyone else has similar questions.

Thanks in advance.

EDIT: Probably worth mentioning that I'm using spray cans and don't expect a professional looking job, this is just temporary until the car is off the road for the winter.

[five&dime]

So your doing the work with spray cans? To be honest, the least of your worries will be feathering the existing paint and the new. You will be hard pressed to match the color using a spray can so the feathering isn't going to help you with blending.

I have also never heard of anyone clearing over base coat. I would worry about the chemicals mixing and lifting or cracking/bubbling of the finish. Otherwise why not just do a base/clear???????

I recomend buffing single stage with a high speed buffer and some rubbing compound followed by a polishing compound and then hand wax.

In regards to dry time in b/t coats. You really don't ever want to wait more than a full day to shoot follow up coats. If you wait more than a day you need to scuff the surface with a 3M pad. I also don't see any reason why you can't wetsand/sand in b/t coats of single stage. Just don't sand the final.

I don't have much experience with single stage. But these rules should still apply

[EScanlon]

First question.

I'll be using a metallic paint, and since you aren't supposed to wet-sand a metallic, and you can't clear a single stage until the paint is 150% cured... how do I finish it off? Some polishing/cutting compound and a orbital buffer?

Second question.

Since you can't wet sand in between coats, I assume you have to spray a second coat pretty close to the tack/flash time of the paint. What sort of time frame would I have to shoot more coats? I know this is fairly dependent on the type of paint and how it's mixed, but there must be a ROUGH time-frame.

Third question.

How do you feather in edges over existing paint without wet sanding, will a buffing/cutting compound do the trick?

...

EDIT: Probably worth mentioning that I'm using spray cans and don't expect a professional looking job, this is just temporary until the car is off the road for the winter.

I emphasized a couple lines in your post.

If you're planning on clear coating a single stage paint, you enter into the same precautions / time frame as a two-stage paint. That is, same manufacturer and (usually) clear coated within a given time frame / temp range / cure time. Clear coating a metallic paint will change it's appearance. I wouldn't do this on the car, I would shoot a test panel so you don't have to start all over again.

I don't know where you got a figure of 150% cured. Cured is like being alive, either you are or you aren't. Paint cure is something that doesn't happen at a specific point after being painted. That's part of the reason why you're not supposed to touch the surface for a given amount of time, nor wash it, nor wax it, nor exert a bunch of pressure onto it. Sometimes it's a matter of hours or days or even months. The ambient temperature during that time frame (plus exposure to sun) will affect that.

Polishing and the like will depend on how much paint and how evenly it was applied. Some paints can be "buffed" others can be very difficult to work with.

Sanding between coats of the same paint is an older technique typically used with Lacquer paint. Most paints in use nowdays are Enamels and the cure time before you can sand and re-coat comes into play. The sanding between coats was an old technique to smooth the paint finish and also to affect the overall look (candy paint, some special effects).

A second and subsequent coats of paint are dependent on several factors. The paint type, the temperature, the thickness and method of application of the first coat, some painters shoot a light "mist" coat then follow it up with a "color" coat and finish with a "double-wet" for gloss and smoothness.

Feathering in the new paint over the old will depend on the type of "mask" if any you use. If you're going to shoot the repair area without masking the surrounding paint, your technique will play into it. The amount of "cleanup" or work required to integrate the new paint into the old will depend on how "messy" you were.

BUT:

All of this changes with spray can paint.

Spray can paint typically is mixed to a very thin viscosity. Thin enough that you almost have to work hard to get a run or a sag....except that once you DO get the run or sag..... you can't use any of the spray gun techniques to try to recover from it.

Spray can paint is also formulated to spray, and cure very quickly.... quickly enough that it can be a problem due to the solvents used in it. I've seen fisheye, crazing and lifting occur from using a spray can paint over an older paint.... even when it should have been compatible. And then that's the other rub; is the spray can paint going to work with the older paint without lifting, crazing or otherwise causing problems with the older paint.

Typically spray can paint can be recovered (2nd coat +) within minutes (5-12) of the first coat. Enamel usually requires 20-45, Lacquer was 15-25.

So, since you're not looking to do more than a temp job, just take care and shoot it carefully. You may encounter problems, but you've already stated you're looking to re-paint it later.

If on the other and you're saying that you are looking for this to last a while (meaning more than a few months), then get a proper mix of the paint from your local auto paint store, and shoot it with the help of your body guy.

As you can see, there is a TON of information to at least get familiar with.

But, Hope This Helped.

E

[five&dime]

Well said^

[Poindexter]

Wow, more excellent information to be had on this site. I was considering a similar thing- just to get me to the winter, with a few small spots the size of a quarter, and one playing card-sized area, but now I'm going to wait for a pro to do my touch-ups. I realize that it's too far beyond my complete lack of experience in applying automotive finishes. Thanks E.

[CanadianGTR]

With regards to the 150% comment, it was just an exaggeration. I was told to make sure that the paint was fully cured before applying a clear coat, the gentleman told me at least a week or two just to be safe.

Thanks for all of the help. When I was feathering in the primer over the original paint I noticed that there was no clear on the original paint (it too is a single stage paint) so as long as I don't have a very heavy ridge from poor masking/painting I should be able to feather in with a good rubbing compound.

Thanks again for the advice, I'll get some pictures up when it's all done.