I need some direction on my problem.

[MEZZZ]

Well, its been a few weeks since I have been able to work on my car and the little time I had, I spent on some interior work. I finally (with the help of Sblake01, thanks Stephen!) was able to figure out why my car was not starting. On a side note Stephen, instead of wiring the car back as it was, I opted to rewire a new kill switch and got that in yesterday. A simple on/off toggle, placed low to the floor in the driver side panel around the dogleg area. Works great, flip the toggle to off and the car will just crank, flip it on and she fires right up.

My problem is the car is still missing and smoking (black) from the exhaust. It seems to idle well enough albeit a little fast. I turned the idle adjustment and can get it to idle around 800 rpm but it will die out if I try to get to 700 where it is supposed to be for a manual tranny.

To date, I have replaced all fuel hoses and filter, all vacuum lines. New plug wires, plugs (NGK), rotor, dist cap, pick-up coil and ignition coil. Fuel injectors and connectors replaced as well. Checked for leaks around AFM, boots are tight, soft and crack free. Checked every electric connection i could find and cleaned them including the bullet connectors going to the thermotine switch. Used electrical contact cleaner on the AFM harness and made sure every ground I could find is shiny.

I have checked for spark (got it). Also used a noid light on each injector and it flashes on all 6. I ran a pressure test today on the cylinders, all read between 149-152 across all 6 cylinders.

When I start the car, it starts right up. If I accelerate, it belches black smoke, not a ton but still very noticable. I pulled the brand new plugs (0 miles and maybe 10 minutes run time on them ) and they are black, sooty black not oily black.

Any idea's on where to look next? I appreciate all the advice I get on here, I am still fairly new to all of this but learning everyday.

[sblake01]

Seems like you've covered just about everything I would check. Make sure that your temperatue sensor is good. Test is as outlined in the EF section of the FSM. Also check your thermotime switch to make sure it not shorted closed (open?) and check the cold start valve to make sure it's not leaking.

[geezer]

The description you gave of your plug condition, made me think maybe you should move up to a hotter heat range. Look at the NGK recommendations. Be sure to check everything Stephen mentioned first because that may not cost as much as buying another set of plugs unnessesarily.

Edited August 13, 2008 by geezer

[280~Master]

Like Sblake says check Temp and thermo. Sounds to be running rich, maybe a bad AFM. Mine spits a black mess like this from time to time. I have been told it is running rich, I like it rich can spit flames when I get on it.

[MEZZZ]

Seems like you've covered just about everything I would check. QUOTE]

Then you are training me well Stephen. I pulled out the FSM and FI guide late last night and started reading again. I will check out some of the tests on there today as far as the temp sensor and thermotime switch. Thank you

[MEZZZ]

The description you gave of your plug condition, made me think maybe you should move up to a hotter heat range. Look at the NGK recommendations. Be sure to check everything Stephen mentioned first because that may not cost as much as buying another set of plugs unnessesarily.

Thanks Ron, I have filed away that page you posted, I appreciate it.

I am using the correct plugs, cant remember off the top of my head, something like NGK BSE-11.

[sblake01]

B6ES-11 is the factory recomended plug. That's probably what you mean.

[MEZZZ]

B6ES-11 is the factory recomended plug. That's probably what you mean.

As usual, you are correct, thats what I meant. I posted that as I was drinking my 1st cup of coffee and still in somewhat of a daze.

I am armed with my multimeter and FSM and on my way out for some fun, I will keep you posted on my results.

[Seppi72]

I'd say you have the same problem I do with my '72; viz., the choke on the aft carb is not resetting when the lever is pushed in. I have to manually reach underneath the carb and push the piston to the "home" position. I'll take care of this come winter when I have the carbs off to install a new header.

In the case of FI, is it possible that one (or more) injector(s) is(are) not "resetting" as things heat up? I honestly don't know how these injectors are controlled (a "chip" somewhere, I presume) and the problem could just as well be mechanical as electronic.

[MEZZZ]

Seems like you've covered just about everything I would check. Make sure that your temperatue sensor is good. Test is as outlined in the EF section of the FSM. Also check your thermotime switch to make sure it not shorted closed (open?) and check the cold start valve to make sure it's not leaking.

Okay Stephen, I ran some test over the past few days.

Fuel pressure between the filter and fuel rail...36

Noid Light, all injectors wires flash.

Spark at all 6 plugs.

Compression Test 149-151 on all cylinders.

AFM Boot soft and crack free and as tight as I can get them. (I did notice the rubber plug missing on the air bypass screw, a little silicone is around the hole.)

All vaccum lines tight.

Every electrical connector cleaned with emery cloth and contact cleaner, all ground wires to shiny metal.

I pulled out the FSM and ran a few test. Used a multimeter on the water temp sensor, cold 2.25 ohms, ran motor 10 minutes, retested, .085. Checked the thermotime switch, it was 74.8, between the guidlines in the FSM.

Then, I pulled the connection to the cold start valve. It seems like it mght be suspect as while it still smokes at higher revs, no where near what it was doing before. It actually had no visible smoke at idle.

That might make sense because when I first start it cold, it seems lkike it idles great, about 1100 rpm and then gradually drops down like it should, then it starts running choppy.

I then attempted to set the timing, I cannot get it to 10 btdc at all. I have a timing light with a vacuum dial on the back, I set that to 0, put a dab of paint on the mark, idle is between 700-800, vacuum line pulled off the distributor and if I crank the dist all the way to the right (while looking at it, the closest I can get is 20.

Any ideas on hwere to go from here? Thanks

[sblake01]

Just a guess but either the distributor drive is off a tooth or the advance is stuck.

[MEZZZ]

Ive done some searching on here and in the FSM. I know I havent had the oil pump out but that doesnt rule out a P.O. If it was running well when I bought it (it was) would this still be the case? If I pull the ditributor and make sure cylinder #1 is at T.D.C., the shaft should be at 11:25, correct? If it isnt, I have to drain the oil, pull the pump per the FSM and realign it. Also, can I check it by making sure #1 is at T.D.C and pulling the cap and seeing if the rotor is aligned with the #1 wire? Not sure about this. Lets say I pull it and the shaft is at the correct 11:25 position. Could the pulley then be off? Would I have to pull it and realign at that point?

I did replace the pick-up coil per the advice of a guy that looked at my car, saying the spark looked weak. When I did so, I marked the dist. before removing. I set the air gap at .0016 or .016 (manual is in the garage), regardless, whatever it called for. I did notice a small black piece of plastic, sort of crescent shaped that had a hole at the end of it. It was just sitting inside, underneath the plate. It almost looks as if it was broken as I saw more of this plastic, looks like it raises the plate a bit. I could not get the retaining screw out of outside of the dizzy that holds the pick-up wire in place, so for righ now, I just routed it as it should be without securing it with a screw. Might it be best to get a new dizzy, this thing looks like it has seen better days.

I checked online and can get a remanufactured one with pick-up coild and new advance for $112. My 14th anniversary is coming up and my wife doesnt know what to get me

On a side note, while the car was running, I pinched off the return gas line and the idle increased and seemed to smooth out a little, is that normal? I read something about pinching it off but cant find it now.

Thanks!