Prep stories...

[2ManyZs]

What about Solo 2? Two car running on mirror image courses of cones against the clock.

[spudz]

2ManyZ's that is SCCA Pro Solo. Kind of like

drag racing with cones The only thing about

Pro Solo is it can cause you to have more breakage,becuase of having to launch the car

when the light goes green .

[smg1404]

I have run solo's before... But never anything more than that. I plan to run in a couple before the end of this year.. It may take me a while to get there, but eventually I would liketo run in an event that has several cars running together. This will probably take me a while to get to though. Too many issues, like getting a car, license, money, time. Anyway, it certainly helps to know what I will need to get there.

[hmsports]

I've found that spending the money on suspension before an engine prep is a good thing. A car with a great suspension that is tuned will take a car with a less-than great suspension but with a killer engine.

I raced for four years on a $75 engine I swapped out of my friend's street car. I spent the time and money making the car handle -- installed the ground control suspension -- and I was running top ten overall every race -- and have at least fifteen top three trophies to show -- and three first place.

Once I got my car handling and felt comfortable driving, I dropped about $3K into a prepped engine and exhaust. I was able to out power a lot of cars now -- but the suspension (and my driving ability) was there too.

I wouldn't spend the money on a ground control set-up again. You can find the parts you need from other sources cheaper. The coil-over kits are available from a lot of circle track catalogs. The camber plates are about the hardest thing to find. I had the ground control set and I didn't care for how they bolted in. I'm going ot use weld-in plates from now on. I would go with the two-way adjustable Koni inserts. The Tokicos don't last if you have stiffer than 200# springs -- or if you have a tendency to take a few off-track excursions.

A good adjustable anti-sway bar is a must when you start getting competitive. They aren't cheap, but will help get things dialed in. For starters to save money you can get used non-adjustable bars.

I used to use the Performance Friction brake pads (one of the Porche models fit if you oblongated the holes). They aren't available any more -- too bad because they were great. I've tried Porterfield and not had good luck. The Hawk blue pads are what I use and seem to do ok. They get soft after a while if you don't duct them well.

Replace the T/C rod bushings with the aluminum/delrin set. Replace the diff mount with a solid one. Upgrade to Spicer u-joints.

Have fun!

[Willow Warrior]

I second the motion to start with good suspension and front brake ducting. Save the motor for later.

I bought my car with cage and suspension in it.

My car finished a 1-hour enduro at Willow Springs behind a Shelby GT-350, and Porsche 914-6. Not bad for good suspension and a piece of crap E-88 100K miles motor with Bar's Leak-Stop in it. I didn't even adjust the valves or SU's. R-180 with open 3.36 gears and "A-Box" 4-spd tranny. The car tore people up in the turns.

ALL parts on the car were of boneyard heritage. (they were in safe order, though). Springs were "something that fit with a good rate". (although the owner did cut down the struts). The front brake ducting was two tubes of that Volkswagen heat-exchanger tubes tie-wrapped to the front sway bar. (they cost like $2.00 !) Even the Toyos were 1/2 gone. You don't need super-expensive stuff to run a Z-car fast when you are starting to race it. Just don't skimp on safety. Upgrade the quality of the hardware once you are confortably pushing the car and you need more.

I've since had Pierre prep the car to be competitive, and now it's a killer, but it is perfectly okay to stand on the podium and know that you beat people with junkyard parts.

[shock96]

I have to agree with the others. Your best bet is complete the suspension first.

I have seen some very good EP 280z's. I would think about that arena before ITS. Since the E36 has been allowed to compete, there is just no way to beat em.

In EP there are many mods to be made. Better racing with more close racing. Love to see the E30's in there dicing it up. Tough to beat the RX7., but it requires a special driving technique that is hard to master.

Mike