Strange problem with 5speed swap into a '73 240

[Ttiger]

I just installed a 260Z motor with a 280Z 5 speed in my '73 240 that had an automatic. I have two issues remaining to complete the job:

#1 - The shifter does not come up in the center of the hole on the trans tunnel. It's like the car's a '71, but it's a '73 for sure!. It looks like the tunnel has two possible cut-outs, one for manual and one for auto. See the attached photo. If I cut the tunnel along the foreward line to make the hole bigger, the shifter will be in the center of the hole (good), but the shift boot I bought will be too small (bad). The boot I bought has a rubber lip that fits around the inside of the tunnel hole. Should I be using the boot that is held down by a metal ring ? (I have that ring). If so, the bolt holes won't line up with the bolt holes in the tunnel. According to the Nissan parts fiche, there are two different floor sections, one for manual and one for auto. Help?

#2 - The '73 originally had a dual point distributor (for the automatic). My new engine has a single point distributor. I connected both the point wires together so that whichever point selection the car made based on engine temp etc, it would connect to the same set of points. The problem is now the car won't shut down if I turn the key off. I know there's an extra soleniod for the dual points on auto trans cars. I guess I have to figure out which wire is always "hot" and disconnect the other. I also don't have an EGR valve or the "thermo switch assy" so I don't think the car will try and switch point set connections.

Thanks

[Ttiger]

One More problem:

#3 - The guy I bought the trans from must have dropped it because I didn't notice until I got it installed, of course, but the end where the rear seal is was flat on the bottom. It cracked the housing where the seal goes so when I tried to tap it back round, the metal broke so the seal will go in but it's not tight and leaks. It looks like that part is part of the whole rear extension housing. Will a 4-speed extension housing fit? Are they still available? I'd like to be able to repair it while still in car rather than have to pull everything out again. Epoxy?

[Curtis240Z]

#1 - There are two rubber boots needed for the manual transmission. The round accordian boot goes around the chrome shifter and covers the opening in the top of the transmission to keep dust out. The second boot is for the tunnel (which is the one you are asking about). Yes use a body saw and cut the tunnel going forward using the rubber boot lip as your template. Use sheetmetal screws to hold down the metal ring that goes over the boot.

#2 - The second set of points in the automatic style distributor is the retard timing set. You can identify the retard wire because it has an extra large spade connector on it. Leave this retard wire disconnected.

#3 - Cracked at the bottom of the seal, I'd ask for another tail section because you will always have to watch when your repair wears out and the consequenses are serious.

[Six_Shooter]

I did a similar swap on my '73.

It started life as an automatic.

I bought it, along with a tranny that was supposed to be a 5-speed, from a '77 Z, turned out to be a 4-speed, I installed it anyway, because the auto was just too boring.

I recently installed a 5-speed from an '81 ZX, which is even better.

The 5-speed installed just like the 4-speed did.

I have a thead on HybridZ about my swap, and shows the tunnel modification.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=134300

You will notice that the metal ring has 4 holes that are not in an equal pattern, these will line up with dimples in the floor to locate it properly. You can then use the inside of the metral ring to mark where the forward section of the floor needs to be cutout.

When I did my swap, I also wanted to swap my electronic dizzy in, but since the vacuum diaphram canister was damaged, the timing was locked, and the car really didn't like that. I used the original dual points dizzy until I recently installed the turbo and EFI.

I'm not sure exactly how the 280 dizzy connected into the car in factory fashion, I'm using a GM ignition module on mine, mostly due to the ECM also being something pirated from a GM. You may need to swap to a later tach, that is voltage triggered and not current triggered. I actually changed my tach long ago, and just had to make a simple jumper from the resistor to the coil, and then used one of the two wires running back to where the tach is to trigger the later tach.

If the case itself is cracked, you will be pulling the tranny out again. It would be MUCH easier to remove the tail section and re-install it with the tranny on the bench as opposed to in the car.

[wa5ngp]

Hey Six shooter, did you keep the original rear axle when you went to the 5 speed? I've got a very sad 81zx with a 5 speed that I'm thinking robbing for putting into my 73 4 speed. So far everything I've read recommends trading the rear axle at the same time. I'm mainly looking for quieter highway driving and some mpg improvement not to mention the cheap

thrill of one more gear to shift.

Don

[sblake01]

Don if your car has the original differential it should be a 3.36 R180. The 81 ZX 5 speed differential should be a 3.90 R200. You'll actually get better mpg with the stock rear end though it won't pull as well off the line plus the ZX R200 swap requires some modification.

[zuum]

Aren't autos 3.54 rear ratio?