Clunk elimination has begun, with pics

[Duffman]

Stephen, here is a website for the "snubber" (L bracket): http://www.v8-240z.com/. David sells the bracket for $20 delivered, but you can make one yourself. He says to take out the diff mount insulator and the diff crossmember to properly install. I have a 90 degree drill that allowed me to reach the appropriate areas without removing those parts. Bought the 2"x 2" L bracket at Home Depot. Followed the threading instructions off the website.

[JonnyRock]

I've been asked to provide more specifics on troubles with the solid diff mounts.

Here's the thread I mentioned showing the cracked and fatigued crossmembers.

Hybridz.org - What is the deal with solid diff mounts?

There's a couple of other similar threads in their 'Drivetrain' section as well.

gnosez noticed that i didn't read well enough and the RT mount doesn't cause this strain

Edited February 27, 2009 by JonnyRock

[gnosez]

The stress mentioned in the Hybridz forum is related to those folks who have installled solid diff mounts like those sold by MSA and Arizona Z Car. You can also make your own solid mount by just welding up the sides of an existing OEM diff mount (we have done that on our "club" race car).

The Ron Taylor mount (named after Ron), replaces the band strap device used to control the diff front moving upward. The new mount incorporates a GM style poly transmission bushing to act as a cushion between the diff and the mount itself. More rigid than the OEM rubber mount but less rigid than a solid or welded mount.

The stress mentioned in the Hybridz post looks like it causes the diff/rear control arm cross member to crack. Since the Ron Taylor mount suspends the diff from above, the diff is no longer attached to the cross member.

Hence, there can be no stress crack related issues.

And any Z with a clunk issue would benefit from this type of diff mount whether you have a stock engine or a V8.

[Zedyone_kenobi]

UPDATE:

With the new inner rear control arm bushings, my faint clunk is still there. Which makes me think its still either in the diff or the tranny. I am running out of mounts to replace! haha

Next up is the engine mounts. I am not sure they are actually bad, but I figure I may as well do a refresh of them while I am at it. I think I can knock them out quickly.

I just hope I can jack up the engine far enough without unbolting everything.

[sblake01]

The "BELT-ARRESTER-DIFFER", 55425-E4100/55425-N4300, that Rob alluded to in post #72 is NLA. I had contacted Russell at nissanparts.cc about a week ago and he said he's check on it and get back to me. According to him there's not one to be had anywhere in the US (the US Nissan dealers have no link to the other Nissan world market databases). That was the one and only item I changed when I bought my Z 12 years ago and it had the dreaded clunk. The clunk hasn't returned since I changed that part. There must be some manufacturer/distributor somewhere that deals in such parts that if the dimensions of the Nissan part were known could match it up with some existing alternative.