HELP! Clutch grinding, very stiff 1st shift!

[srbigbutt]

This sounds a lot like what my slave was doing as well. I bled it and it was ok for a while. Until reverse started grinding again and then I all of a sudden all my clutch fluid leaked out the slave. Replaced it and its been great so far.

[Arne]

I don't think that '75 had an adjustable slave. I'm pretty sure that was just a 240z thing.

Not even all 240Zs, just the '70-71.

Replacing both is a good idea. Might look at the hose to the slave too. If it's showing any age, this would be the time to change it out.

[mikewags]

Sounds like that might be the culprit. Any particular place I should buy it, or would advanced/discount auto parts carry these?...

Thanks guys.

[DeesZ]

FWIW.... I've had two 240Z slave cylinders go bad during normal service (others from sitting way too long, etc.) Both times I had grinding going into reverse as the first symptom, and after bleeding it doesn't always go away. My suspicion (in agreement with Arne) is that a new slave will take care of your problem. Since you got some air out of the system, that indicates a problem that needs addressed. Many people (including myself) would recommend replacing the master at the same time as the slave. One time i did not, and about three weeks later it became necessary to do so. (If the master was recently replaced, I would likely just do the slave.) Where to get them.... I think I got my last ones from MSA. Black Dragon, Rock Auto, and NAPA come to mind as likely suspects, and of course the dealer.... I'm certain that other members have some good ideas as well....

Unless the transmission was giving you some other 'signals' prior to this series of events, and you haven't been beating it to death, I would not rush to tear into it. Eliminate the simple stuff first. Please keep us posted on your progress.

[mikewags]

Called the local Advanced Auto Parts...they carry both. They will have to order me the Master Cylinder ($48.00) - and would you believe they have 1 slave cylinder there in stock? ($17.00) - The prices seem pretty good.

Going to head down and check it out.

[srbigbutt]

I bought mine from Orielly Auto Parts. It was only $15. I needed it right away and couldn't wait to order it.

[mikewags]

I picked up the slave cylinder they had in stock.

Turns out they had the Master in the computer, but there were none in stock; ANYWHERE. Not able to be ordered.

Oh well, the slave seems to be the real problem, so i'll swap it out tomorrow and let you all know how it goes.

Anything I should know when changing out the slave? Should the FSM suffice?

Thanks!

[ktm]

Be careful when buying the master cylinder. You can order one from MSA or Courtesy Nissan. I made a post on Hybridz.org about the difference in the master cylinder piston length. Both master cylinders were purchased for a 1975 280z; however, one master cylinder had a longer piston than the other. The original master cylinder in my car had the longer piston. MSA sells (or at least stocks in their storefront) both types.

I mention this because a the wrong length piston can cause you grief.

[DeesZ]

Don't forget to closely inspect or replace the flexible hose that attaches to the slave. Sorry I forgot to mention that the first time...sorry. They have been known to fail as well.

[mikewags]

I don't think advance auto parts carried the hose, but i will inspect it and replace it if i find any problems with it. The slave/hose was clean before i bled it, so i doubt it is leaking; perhaps just the slave itself failed.

As for the Master, I believe they make 2 or 3 different ones. Considering i have a November 1975 Z, I will have to buy the Master that is 6/75 and on. Any suggestions for a particular brand outside of OEM?

We'll see.

[Curtis240Z]

Another check for a failing slave is to pull back the rubber cover and if it is wet, then the slave is leaking and needs replacement.

As far as the grinding, you can first bleed the system as you already did and then adjust the master cylinder rod. Using a pliers and a 12 mm open end wrench, hold the master cylinder rod with a pliers and break loose the 12 mm lock nut on the rod. Extend the rod movement by turning the rod with the pliers. Check the proper length by checking for grinding by shifting into reverse.

[Neumeier]

Generally, it is a good idea to replace the slave cylinder, master cylinder, and hose at the same time. The cylinders are very easy to rebuild as well, if you want to save a few bucks. Black Dragon has the kits for these ($13 and $7 each). Make sure you flush out the old fluid from the steel line too.