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So I picked up this '72 240Z... What have I gotten myself into?


Turbo7MN

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Okay, I'm going to get this out of the way first: I started looking for a Z because I intended on just finding one with a clean chassis and beginning an engine swap project... an aluminum block Ford DOHC 4.6, likely from a Lincoln Mark VIII.

I had been looking for a chassis for a little while, maybe a month or two, when I saw a car pop up on craigslist a short drive from my old house that sounded promising. Originally a Texas car, sat in a garage for the last 8 years, and supposedly very clean.

So I went to look at it. The car was originaly a putrid green color but it had a fresh coat of bright red put on right before it was parked that was still in very good condition. The only serious rust on the car was the rear edge of the hatch. I couldn't believe the kind of condition this thing was in.

So me and a couple friends went back last Sunday with a trailer and picked up the car. I almost feel bad saying how much I paid for a Z in this condition, but I will anyway :). $700 cash and she was mine. We tried cranking it over but it didn't turn much before it got stuck.

On the way to my friend's place where I'm keeping it, we talked about what kind of shape it was in and they kinda talked me into trying to get it running in its current state and driving it with the L24 for a while. The very unfortunate thing is the car has an automatic. If I did get it going, I'd probably manual swap it over the winter.

But anyway, my friend pulled the plugs out and put some MMO in the cylinders and has been turning it by hand all week so we're hopeful that we can get it going soon.

I do have some questions now:

1. The car has been sitting 8 and a half years. I figured changing the gas, oil, coolant, etc. is a given. A friend also reccomended pulling the valve cover off and making sure everything moves freely by hand before trying to run the car. Anything else you guys reccomend before trying to fire it up?

2. This car is a '72, but an early 72 from what I've gathered. I cannot recall the exact build date. Anyway, I have heard the '72 is heavier than the original 70-71 models but have not been able to find an actual curb weight of the 72. How much heavier exactly is the '72 compared to the 70-71?

3. I have not been able to find out whether the L24 is an interference motor or not. Shouldn't matter too much since it's a timing chain instead of a belt but it would be nice to know.

I'm sure I'll have more as time goes on.

Oh, and here's a crappy cell phone pic of the car. I'm gonna try and get better ones this weekend.

0914081315.jpg

-Darren

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Wow!! Killer deal. Can't see the pix at work but for $700 why not??

I think the emissions are the only difference on the 72 so that is probably the added weight. There are a lot more guys who really know there stuff here so it is only a matter of time before they chime in.

What you HAVE gotten yourself into is a constant drain on your bank account and your significant other's patience :)

Cheers

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The chassis is mint :). I swear I read the earliest models were lighter, and I know there was some significant change between the two years, but there wasn't any real specifics and I can't remember where I read it now...

Trying to fix this thing up and go to college will be a challenge, that's for sure. It'll be worth it though. I love this car already and I've only just picked it up at this point.

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The car looks fine, but why would you want to use a Ford Modular engine? It is HUGE and heavy. There are plenty of better choices for motor swaps than that one. A simple SBC would be far easier and come out better.

To answer your question, YES the L24 is an interference engine.

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The car looks fine, but why would you want to use a Ford Modular engine? It is HUGE and heavy. There are plenty of better choices for motor swaps than that one. A simple SBC would be far easier and come out better.

To answer your question, YES the L24 is an interference engine.

I have a friend that works on mostly Lincolns and can get me a Mark VIII engine much cheaper than I would be able to find anything else. I know it's gonna be a tough fit, but I have seen one similar swap partially completed. Enough to know the engine, though pretty tight, does indeed fit into the S30 engine bay. I'm not big into doing swaps that a thousand other people have either... If I'm going through the trouble of swapping anything in, I may as well do something unique.

The aluminum Teksid block is actually very lightweight for its size. The DOHC modular is a great engine... and this is coming from a guy that usually hates Fords.

Thanks for the info aboit the L24.

-Darren

Edited by Turbo7MN
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Yes, 240Zs got heavier as time went on, but the bigger differences didn't show up until '73 with reinforced bumpers. A '72 isn't all that much heavier than a '70 or '71, I'd guess 50 lbs. or so. Curb weight was listed at 2355 for a '70. I wouldn't sweat the weight differences.

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Welcome to our little world. I'm jealous of the deal you got. Mine was $900 and in plenty worse shape. I did, however, do almost all of the mechanical work and interior while working full time and attending college full time, so it can be done.

I second the recommendation of getting it drivable with the L24 in there. At least you'll have a benchmark of sorts.

Then you'll have to start scouring junk yards in your spare time (what's left of it) and try to find a 5-speed car to liberate of precious parts. I'm sure things will snowball from there. It's only a matter of time.

Oh, and you might double check the fuel pump. You could pump it by hand if need be to make sure the diaphragm isn't wasted inside (or turn the engine over and watch the fuel filter to make sure it squirts fuel). That's my only item to add to the list.

Edited by blue 72
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By turning the engine over with the crappy oil in was your first mistake . Drain that contaminated stuff and change the filter. Hopefully the cam is still OK , but pour oil over the whole valve train before you turn it any more. Sitting all this time the cam was dry and turning the engine over even by hand can mess up the rockers and cam lobes. When you do turn it over watch to make sure none of the valves stick in position especially open. This is a frequent problem and means bent valves and could be damaged pistons. Since you are wanting to install a vary heavy V-8 and since there is no frame on these cars . Doing some reinforcing is recommended. Beside the weight the torque is another reason.

Congrats on the find . She looks like a good car especially for the money. All the best with your project. Gary

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By turning the engine over with the crappy oil in was your first mistake . Drain that contaminated stuff and change the filter. Hopefully the cam is still OK , but pour oil over the whole valve train before you turn it any more. Sitting all this time the cam was dry and turning the engine over even by hand can mess up the rockers and cam lobes. When you do turn it over watch to make sure none of the valves stick in position especially open. This is a frequent problem and means bent valves and could be damaged pistons. Since you are wanting to install a vary heavy V-8 and since there is no frame on these cars . Doing some reinforcing is recommended. Beside the weight the torque is another reason.

Congrats on the find . She looks like a good car especially for the money. All the best with your project. Gary

Yep. I didn't really want to but the guy I bought it from said give it a shot... it was only a second so hopefully it did not mess anything up. And yeah, that's what my friend told me about pulling the valve covers off to see if anything sticks. If the L24 is toast, I am not going to put any money into restoring it though.

Thanks for the reinforcement reccomendation.

-Darren

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