A little Eibaching help please...

[orange 73]

I am installing my new Eibach springs today along with the Tokico shocks on my 78 280z, I was looking for the answer to which spring goes front or back. I finally found it at the bottom of the box that the shocks were in from MSA. The little note reads:

Eibach Progressive Rate Springs

"The part number on the spring ending in 01 is the front spring" (shorter spring)

"The part number on the spring ending in 02 is the rear spring" (longer spring)

That is the note everyone wants to find in the spring box from Eibach

I hope this helps, and another poster said to make sure the word Eibach and the numbers read right side up when the spring is installed.

[ConchZ]

"The part number on the spring ending in 01 is the front spring" (shorter spring)

"The part number on the spring ending in 02 is the rear spring" (longer spring)

That is the note everyone wants to find in the spring box from Eibach

I hope this helps, and another poster said to make sure the word Eibach and the numbers read right side up when the spring is installed.

Just got my Eibach springs for my 240z, and hope to install them tomorrow. I've already taken out the struts, and am ready to go. Hmm, my short spring ends in an 02, while my taller spring ends in an 01. My shorter spring looks progressive, while my taller spring is looks barely progressive. My short spring is made of a little fatter wire than the taller spring.

The short part number is 6305-202. The tall part number is 6305-001. Also, if I install them with the writing right side up, the tightest coils would be on top, BTW. Do I put this shorter spring in front? Interestingly, I'll have to use a spring compressor for the front and rear ones, which others report not needing.

Finally, I didn't have any O ring under the gland nut when I took them apart. The FSM shows one. Is it necessary? Probably not, since my old set up didn't have one. There was oil in the strut tubes, which must have stayed in place thanks to gravity.

Matt

Edited November 8, 2009 by ConchZ

[Pop's Z]

Hi Matt, I installed these on my '73 240. Long springs in the rear, short ones in the front, numbers on the springs are right side up. You WILL have to use a spring compressor. The Tokico springs are the ones which don't require them. I had to re-do the placement of the compressors on the first spring to make them work...couldn't compress them far enough. The progressive(short) springs go on the front, the rears(long) are not progressive or so I've been told. I use them in conjunction with KYB struts. zsondabrain Dave told me they would work and they do, a nice combination. Some say you shouldn't use Eibachs with KYBs, but I have had no problems going on two years of spirited driving. Good luck with the project down there in the Republic.

Cheers, Mike

[Doehring]

As far as I remember the progressiv Eibachs are not only different front and rear, you also have to look where the bigger distances between the threads have to be up and where down.

My rear Eibachs after a jump crashed into the dome 'cause I had them upside down. Big damage! Unfortunately I cant't remember. Please ask Eibach!

Rolf

[ConchZ]

I am going to ask Eibach, because every other website says the spring that ends in 001 is the front one, whether it is a Ford, Toyota or Nissan spring. I also found a quote from ZManOfWashington, who sells these exact springs on his website. He says the long one goes in the front.

I'm hoping to get Eibach on the phone tomorrow. It would be a lot of work to re-install these if I get it wrong. I'll post what I learn. It is very disappointing that they don't include some simple instructions with the springs, or on their website.

The Conch Republic is very windy today. Hurricane Ida is combining with the high pressure to the north to blow us a gale.

[ConchZ]

Wwaaiiiit a minute! My wife just peeled back the shipping label, and found a sticker on the box. It says that the part number ending in 01 (taller spring) is the front one! The part number ending in 02 (shorter spring) is the rear one! I will proceed accordingly tomorrow. Can't wait to have a drivable Z again. Mike, I'm curious if you would be happier with your springs reversed. I guess we can compare notes after I put mine in.

On a related note, I have been using Chassis Saver paint (similar to POR15) on my suspension parts. Don't store this stuff for more than an hour or two in a plastic go-cup. It will eat right through it. Also, if you get this stuff on you, it won't come off for days. Ask me how I know. Store it in a wax paper cup or a glass jar, and wear gloves (which I did, except that one time). Otherwise, it seems to be good stuff.

Edited November 8, 2009 by ConchZ

[Pop's Z]

Hi Matt, I just went out and checked my car and the 001 is on the front. Zmanofwashington is always correct on these matters. My memory storage system seems to have some funny little blips lately. As I now remember (?) the long ones ARE on the front. They are the progressive ones. When you load the suspension you'll see they compress alot, in fact the coils are touching, but they stiffen up considerably. They look consideably smaller in diameter than the stock springs, too. Have fun with your project. Hurricanes? We don't need no stinkin' hurricanes.

Cheers, Mike

[GreenZZZ]

I have a photo posted of my box-o-springs... Not installed yet as I'm in an engine rebuild now.

http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showfull.php?photo=24506

Edited November 9, 2009 by GreenZZZ

[GreenZZZ]

Here is some snaps of them installed...

http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=32135

Dave's look upside down. Probably doesn't matter???

http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=17898&ppuser=4921

[ConchZ]

I got em in today. Lowered the car back onto its tires, and took it for a drive. It looked good before I left, but when I got back, it was obvious that the right rear was sagging. It was so bad that I couldn't get my hand between the 14" tire and the wheel well. The others are fine. It was dark, and I'm tired. Hopefully, I'll figure this out tomorrow, but I'll take suggestions. The only thing I did tonight check was that the bolts on the top of the strut assembly were still on. My next thing to check is going to be the control arm mount bolts. Maybe they are lose, or worse. No strange noises on the drive, though.

I was real careful that the spring was in the top and bottom seats before I installed it, so I assume its not that. I appreciate any suggestions. My initial suggestion to myself is to take it to someone who knows what he's doing. :stupid:

I'm glad I did this, because not only did I get to refinish my suspension parts, I discovered that my flexible front brake lines are cracked pretty bad, and that I can't bleed the right front caliper. Something is clogging it up. I can push fluid through the last connection before the caliper, so it has to be a clog in the caliper. Oooh goody, more work to do. Wonder if those stainless steel lines are worth the money...

Matt

[70 Cam Guy]

The stainless lines are easily worth the money. The pedal feels great, I have the MSA stainless lines. They are actually Earl's lines, very good quality.

Did you install the long springs in the rear?

Are you saying you can't get any fluid to come out of the caliper bleeder? Is someone holding down the brake pedal when you crack the bleeder or line connections? Does that caliper still function when the brake pedal is pressed?

[ConchZ]

The stainless lines are easily worth the money. The pedal feels great, I have the MSA stainless lines. They are actually Earl's lines, very good quality.

Did you install the long springs in the rear?

Are you saying you can't get any fluid to come out of the caliper bleeder? Is someone holding down the brake pedal when you crack the bleeder or line connections? Does that caliper still function when the brake pedal is pressed?

Thanks for the input on the stainless lines.

Per Eibach part numbering convention, instructions from MSA and ZManOfWashington, plus the pictures of GreenZZZ's installation, I'm convinced that the short springs go on the back. During the installation, I noticed that the back springs were soft and short enough to install without a spring compressor. The front ones were not. The back ones are softer at first, but will become stiffer than the front after a certain point. For more info on spring rates, see this link from Atlantic Z Car Club.

On my brake caliper bleed issue, I can't get anything to come out of the caliper bleeder. It does still function, but my pedal is very soft. If I can fit an air hose to the bleeder port, I'll disconnect the brake line at the caliper (where fluid will come out), and blow some air backwards through it, I think. The left side caliper bleeds just fine.

Would like to use this as an excuse to upgrade to the Toyota calipers, but the existing old 240 calipers barely fit inside my 14" wheels, so I doubt the Toyota's would fit.

Matt

Edited November 11, 2009 by ConchZ