plus the pictures of GreenZZZ's installation

Actually Bart and Dave's installs. Mine are still in the box

Before disconnecting the line to blow air, try unscrewing the bleeder completely to make sure the orifice isn't clogged. I have seen debris and corrosion close off the bleeder hole until you remove the bleeder.

If your pedal is really soft, it does sound like it needs to be bled. You've probably already done so but make sure you're not losing fluid from the wheel cylinders or caliper pistons. With a pocket screwdriver or dental pick, carefully pull back the dust boots and check for fluid. As long as you're not losing fluid from the flex hoses, you should be able to get the system bled if there are no other leaks

Edited November 12, 200915 yr by 70 Cam Guy

Before disconnecting the line to blow air, try unscrewing the bleeder completely to make sure the orifice isn't clogged. I have seen debris and corrosion close off the bleeder hole until you remove the bleeder.

If your pedal is really soft, it does sound like it needs to be bled. You've probably already done so but make sure you're not losing fluid from the wheel cylinders or caliper pistons. With a pocket screwdriver or dental pick, carefully pull back the dust boots and check for fluid. As long as you're not losing fluid from the flex hoses, you should be able to get the system bled if there are no other leaks

A Q-tip with brake cleaner on it did the trick. Cleaned out the bleeder screw.

Thanks for the "tip".

The attached explain what I'm talking about. How normal is this? Admittedly, the difference between the height of the left rear and right rear isn't much, but the right rear is definitely lower than the left rear. Maybe I'm being too picky, but I'd like the car to be level.

I will say that it now rides a lot better. The old strut inserts were so worn out that I could push the piston in with one finger, and it then won't come back out on its own! The car now feels more sure of itself accelerating through corners, and it the struts don't bottom out any more. It is now obvious how bad the tires are. Gotta make a decision on keeping the wheels, first. That'll be another thread subject.

Edited November 12, 200915 yr by ConchZ

A Q-tip with brake cleaner on it did the trick. Cleaned out the bleeder screw.

Thanks for the "tip".

Cool, glad it worked! You can still upgrade your brakes, but now you have more time

I hate being forced into upgrades even when I want to do them...

The attached explain what I'm talking about. How normal is this? Admittedly, the difference between the height of the left rear and right rear isn't much, but the right rear is definitely lower than the left rear. Maybe I'm being too picky, but I'd like the car to be level.

I will say that it now rides a lot better. The old strut inserts were so worn out that I could push the piston in with one finger, and it then won't come back out on its own! The car now feels more sure of itself accelerating through corners, and it the struts don't bottom out any more. It is now obvious how bad the tires are. Gotta make a decision on keeping the wheels, first. That'll be another thread subject.

Wish I could help with the ride height. Pure speculation but maybe one of the insulators settled more than the other side? Maybe the springs need to settle some more? The car is looking really good!

I am diggin the 14s! Those are definitely old school cool. I have 205/60R14 on my car. If I can swing it, I'll be getting a set of 16" Fortran wheels. They are total old school Japanese wheels and pretty hard to find.

If it isn't rubbing, my guess is the left side settles to the right side height after a while.

Did you actually measure both sides at the bottom of the rockerpanel? Maybe it's not the height of the car that is off...

Ok, I've searched this forum quite a bit, and cannot seem to get the "definitive" answer as to whether or not I installed my springs properly.

I installed the shorter, more tightly wound springs on the front of the car. Also, more tightly wound end of these springs is positioned towart the top of the assembly. I sure hope this is correct.

Also, the car doesn't sit any lower yet. BTW, it has been on jack stands for 3 months, waiting for me to finish. Having a child, my first, has put everything on hold.

IF the springs are indeed installed correctly, will the ride height settle a bit?

Thanks,

Adamr

Typically with Eibach, the springs with the '1' at the end of the painted on part number are the fronts.

Despite other things you may read, it makes no difference at all which end is up.

The car may settle some, bit not much. If you are comparing the height with Eibachs to the prior height with possibly sagged stock springs, there may not be much difference. What is the height measured at the bottom of the rocker panels? And what size tires do you have?

Arne,

Thanks. I felt somewhat confident with what had been written in this thread. Then I saw GREENZZ pic on post #21. It looks like he has the front springs installed in the back. Someone else had theirs in what I thought was an upsidedown postition.

You advised me on my wheel and tire combo over a year ago. Thanks for that, too.

Adamr

The longer springs go in the front, as I recall. As Arne said, they are the springs with the number ending in 1, whereas the rear numbers end in 2.

I installed mine with the lettering right-side up, and this was the correct configuration (with the nearly bound end of the progressive springs being at the top where they belong). As others have explained, having the bound coils at the top avoids having that extra bit of mass be unsprung weight at the bottom of the spring. As thoroughly discussed before, it's doubtful there is a handling difference, but someone may point it out eventually - why NOT install them the "correct" way?

Also, Doehring's post above regarding the correct orientation may be of interest to the discussion...

Anyway, if you put the short springs in the front, and you have the standard 240Z kit, you have installed them wrong, and I imagine the ride height may be weird once you have moved the car from your garage. When I bought my Eibach kit, there was a sheet included from the manufacturer that explicitly stated which springs go where, on absolutely no uncertain terms. I would check the stuff that came in your box again.

When you first lower it down, it will of course sit very high, because the suspension is still bound up - the wheels are essentially being pushed inward by the ground. They need to move outward for it to settle to the proper ride height, and once you pull the car out of the garage, and back in, you'll have a better idea about the ride height.

After rolling the car back and forth, I only lost about 1/8" in ride height in front and back after about 10 miles of driving, so I don't expect it to settle much more.