Quick update on my cutting my springs. The springs are cut and I drove the car tonite after work. She now sits level, (no rake).

I did a quick spring calculation. Since the coil I cut was a half-height coil, my thumbnail guess is it got about 7% stiffer.

On the road, it feels just a tiny bit stiffer. I pushed it a little on a couple corners, and it seems to make no difference in handling. I'm OK with it being slightly stiffer and sitting level.

Now I can adjust the headlights!

Did you have to take them off to cut them,Do you need a spring compresor?

I really want to cut all 4 of mine ASAP.......

Did you have to take them off to cut them,Do you need a spring compresor?

I did use a spring compressor to remove tension from the spring before cutting it. I don't think it would be wise to try to cutting the spring while under compression. Each spring cut took 7-to-8 carbide dremel discs, (because they kept breaking). WEAR EYE PROTECTION!!! Lots of sparks when cutting and shrapnel when the discs break...

I dropped the front suspension down as far as possible without stressing the front brake line. I then removed the keeper-nut from the top of the shock and pressed the rod down so I pull the suspension out of the shock tower. This allowed me to remove the spring perch to lift the cut section of spring out.

Getting the shock rod back into the strut tower required using a small pry-bar to lever the rod down just enough to get it back into place. A small jack was used to help lift the lower suspension arm to move the strut rod through the hole in the top strut pad. (Remember there is a small flat on the rod that has to align with the flat in the hole in the top strut pad).

I suppose you could make two cuts on the spring. Then you would not have to drop the suspension, but it might actually take a little longer to do the job.

Since I was reducing the travel in the suspension by about 3/4", I also cut down the bump stop about 1/2". Probably not required, but I figured it couldn't hurt.

Working by myself, using manual screw spring compressors, it took about 2 hours for the first side and 90 minutes for the second side to disassemble, cut the spring and reassemble. Could probably do it again in about an hour per side now that I have the process down.

Has anyone found a way to drop the rear suspensions without having to remove the brake lines? I need to work on my rear suspension again. I should replace my hard brake lines with longer brake hose ಠ_ಠ

was also wondering the same thing

Why? Bleeding the brakes is pretty simple.

you can clamp the softer hose and buy a brake line stopper from a specialty shop. It has 2 metal fingers that go on the hardline and has a rubber stopper that goes into the line to stop air from bleeding into the system and fluid from coming out. It'll make bleeding a little easier.

Or there is this one from Matco Tools.....

You can also get a stick and wedge it between the steering wheel and brake pedal or seat and brake pedal to push the pedal down 1/2 way. This is like putting your finger on the straw and pulling it out of the liquid. Air can't get in from the top so brake fluid won't drain out the bottom. Still need to bleed the brakes after, but there won't be as much air as there would if you just left the lines open.

I have a 280z with Eibach springs. I have installed them correctly, and there is barely any gap in the front (possibly 1 finger gap), and I have about 2 finger gap in the rear.

Since this is for the 280z, it may sit different from the 240z.

Just to mention: If my car was raised with wheels off the ground, the front spring becomes loose, but the rear is not. But when I installed the rear springs, it almost fit perfectly. Not loose, nor did I need to compress the spring. According to other people who have installed correctly, also said the front springs will be loose with wheels off the ground.

6303.001 - fronts

6303.002 - rears (longer and progressive)

I'm in the middle of installing and those are the part numbers I have. Before I read this I second-guessed myself because the front ones were so loose that they had me worried. I tried putting the shorter ones in the rear (since some have suggested that the longer ones go in the front), but even with the wheels down the spring is still loose, so I guess I will put it back in the front.

I know I'm quoting an old post here, but how snug are the shorter springs when the car is lowered? I'm guessing the car will settle down a bit but right now there's a bit of wiggle room even with the wheels on the ground.

I'm in the middle of installing and those are the part numbers I have. Before I read this I second-guessed myself because the front ones were so loose that they had me worried. I tried putting the shorter ones in the rear (since some have suggested that the longer ones go in the front), but even with the wheels down the spring is still loose, so I guess I will put it back in the front.

I know I'm quoting an old post here, but how snug are the shorter springs when the car is lowered? I'm guessing the car will settle down a bit but right now there's a bit of wiggle room even with the wheels on the ground.

You are fine. Longer ones go in the rear. when you lower the car do it gradually and make sure the front springs seat properly. It will be correct. I had the same worries when I did this a couple months ago.