mally002 Posted September 20, 2008 Share #1 Posted September 20, 2008 (edited) Guys, Was going to do the swap today on the 73 carbs and have ran into a snag. I have removed all the bolts, cables, hoses, etc but can't get this old unit off...any suggestions. I have never done this before so any help would be appreaciated. Also, the new setup looks like it doesn't have as many "parts" is this right for a round top setup...Thanks for any help and a big thanks to Tom for the new carbs. When I say extra parts I mean after everything is put on it will look like some pieces are not needed.....does this make sense? Randy Edited September 20, 2008 by mally002 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carl Beck Posted September 20, 2008 Share #2 Posted September 20, 2008 (edited) Take the intake manifold and old carb's off first to get them out of the way.Soak the flair nuts on the air injection tubes, where they bolt into the exhaust manifold - down with Kroil Penetrating Oil (Aero Kroil). Spray them and let them set for a day.. spray them again and let them set for an hour or so, then spray them one final time before putting a wrench on the flair nuts.See: http://kanolabs.com/I cut the tubes off about an inch above the flair nuts, so I can get a good box end wrench on the nuts to avoid rounding them off. The I put the box end wrench on the nut - and give the other end of the wrench a swift blow with a good brass hammer.A good brass hammer is a must have - if your working on 30+ year old cars. You can get them at Harbor Freight for around $25.00.Using the above method - I've removed about 15 air injection tube assemblies - without having to drill any of them out. If you aren't using "Kroil Oil" (Aero Kroil is the spray car version) - then all bets are off.You then get some brass pipe plugs (Allan head type), put a little pipe dope on the threads and screw them in the holes.FWIW,Carl B.BTW - if you have a gas tourch set - you can heat the flair nuts to break them loose. You just have to be careful not to melt them. This is best down with the exhaust manifold off the car. Edited September 20, 2008 by Carl Beck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mally002 Posted September 20, 2008 Author Share #3 Posted September 20, 2008 Thanks Carl, it's the intake manifold I cant get off. All I'm trying to replace is the old intake manifold and replace it with the new setup. Am I going about this the wrong way?I'm just trying to replace the flat tops with the round tops, I was in hope that the old intake would come right off and I would just bolt the new one on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zs-ondabrain Posted September 20, 2008 Share #4 Posted September 20, 2008 (edited) I know this may sound dumb but, did you get the nuts or bolts on the exhaust manifold that have a large washer overlapping the intake flange? And just remember that heat and gooo tend to Glue the intake to the head.Also, on the new set-up in the second picture, that vaccum tube that goes from the #1 carb to the balance tube is suppost to go to the Distributor for vaccum advance. And don't forget to cap off the ballance tube aftr you remove the hose from it.And yes, there are a lot less parts on a clean set-up, compared to the Flat-top set-up. All those emmisions tubes and crap are unneeded for a 35+ year old car. Unless you're going for that "Concorse" look.Also, if you';re gonna go with a newer set-up and toss that old crap, toss the exhaust manifold for a new Header. You'll love the look and sound, not to mention a couple extra Horse Power.Dave Edited September 20, 2008 by Zs-ondabrain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sblake01 Posted September 20, 2008 Share #5 Posted September 20, 2008 A good brass hammer is a must have - if your working on 30+ year old cars. You can get them at Harbor Freight for around $25.00.I've got both but Harbor Freight carries one that even better for this use and only costs about 6 bucks. It lighter and smaller which helps to keep you from hitting things you don't want to hit and has a brass facing on one side of the head and a nylon facing on the other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280~Master Posted September 20, 2008 Share #6 Posted September 20, 2008 Like dave said make sure you have the bolts from under the carbs. You are going to have to break the seal from the intake to the head gasket. I use a rubber mallet for this. Tap it a few time and then try and wiggle it out of there. Also make sure all the hoses are disconnected. If all else fails take a ride in the thing/car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mally002 Posted September 20, 2008 Author Share #7 Posted September 20, 2008 I know this may sound dumb but, did you get the nuts or bolts on the exhaust manifold that have a large washer overlapping the intake flange? And just remember that heat and gooo tend to Glue the intake to the head.Dave.....That's it, I cant get a wrench on those bolts with the large washer. Maybe I haven't taken enough off the regular setup to get to them yet, taking a break before my lower back breaks in half. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carl Beck Posted September 20, 2008 Share #8 Posted September 20, 2008 (edited) Sorry mally002 - I thought you had the air injection tubes circled in Red in that picture. If your not staying stock - then I'd take the air injection tubes out as well. They stick down into the exhaust ports and restrict exhaust flow, plus you can eliminate the air pump - which most likely isn't working anyway.As for headers - to each his own. I don't like the additional heat and noise under the hood. You don't gain any measureable HP with them alone. Opening up the stock "y" pipe into a 2.5" or larger dia. exhaust system will yeild measureable HP however.I remember seeing the new Carbs/Air cleaners - but can't remember if they retain the air horns on the SU's. Do they? Removing the OEM Air Horns, without replacement will cause a loss of power.FWIW,Carl B. Edited September 20, 2008 by Carl Beck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FHPTOM Posted September 20, 2008 Share #9 Posted September 20, 2008 Randy, I forgot to tell you about the vacuum line. I just had it looped because I was not using vacuum advance on distributor. Yes, it always fun to get those lower nuts loose from the exhaust manifold.Hopefully it will start right up for you once you get them installed. I ran my car right before I took them off to make sure everything was set for my new triples.Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carl Beck Posted September 20, 2008 Share #10 Posted September 20, 2008 Dave.....That's it, I cant get a wrench on those bolts with the large washer. You need a universal swivel, a 10" extension and the socket... as I recall.FWIW,Carl B. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mally002 Posted September 20, 2008 Author Share #11 Posted September 20, 2008 You guys Rock.....thanks for the advice. I finally got everything off and just have one last question. (yea right) Should I plug the holes with something temporary until I put the new carbs on, and do I need this bar circled in the photo. Finally, when you guys talk about the air injection tubes, are they also in this picture and it is ok to remove them? And the other Red circle, what is this piece, it was all rusted and broke like balsa wood. Thanks again, I'm using this car as my "learner" as I'm trying to increase my mechanical skill......Right now I'm just below Rookie....:nervous: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sblake01 Posted September 20, 2008 Share #12 Posted September 20, 2008 The part in the large red oval is the air injection tube(s). The other is a water neck that runs water into the intake. The carb guys will have to tell you how to get around that one. If it unscrews (I don't recall if it does...I'm and EFI guy) you can remove it and put a brass plug in it's place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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