Guys,

Was going to do the swap today on the 73 carbs and have ran into a snag. I have removed all the bolts, cables, hoses, etc but can't get this old unit off...any suggestions. I have never done this before so any help would be appreaciated.

Also, the new setup looks like it doesn't have as many "parts" is this right for a round top setup...Thanks for any help and a big thanks to Tom for the new carbs. When I say extra parts I mean after everything is put on it will look like some pieces are not needed.....does this make sense?

Randy

Edited September 20, 200816 yr by mally002

I used a ratchet -style box end wrench, and worked from under the intake manifold. Some I could reach from above the manifold with an extension and universal. After a couple days soak with penetrant they came off pretty easily. There's typically one that gets left on (seems like it's the one hidden under #6, or blocked by the thermostat) so if you think you've got them all, double check!

Oh, and headers (particularly if coated) add no significant heat, and minimal engine noise.

Good luck!

You need a universal swivel, a 10" extension and the socket... as I recall.

FWIW,

Carl B.

Reset - - - I should have said, it is BEST to have a set of metric swivel sockets. In the case of the intake/exhaust manifold - I can't remember if the nuts are 12mm or 14mm...

If you go to Sears for Craftsman - buy the individual swivel 6 point sockets - don't buy the 6 piece set - the set is missing the 14mm socket - one of the dumber things I've seen Craftsman do.. individually they run $8.50 for the 10 though 14mm sizes.. That will cover 95% of the things you need a swivel for on a 240-Z. The way Sears has them priced, you really don't save anything buying the 6 piece set anyway..

If you can afford Snap-On you'll always hate the price, but you'll never reqret the quality.

FWIW

Carl B.

Edited September 21, 200816 yr by Carl Beck

I love those things but there is a problem with using those on the intake/exhaust nuts. Most of the nuts sit back on the stud, just out of reach of that socket. Or at least that's been my experience with them. I usually go for the deep socket on a swivel.

I got a drawer full of those but they rarely get used unless it's for the head of a bolt, but almost useless on a nut that sits on a too long stud.

Good advice though, in most cases.

Dave.

whatever method you use to take off the manifold wouldn't concern me...you should be concerned as if what if you break a manifold stud or two....BE WARNED if some break, you're in for a glorious drilling/tapping session...

As Carl mentioned above, use Kroil. I might even do an application or two more than he suggested. Now I know this will sound like a 'tall tale' but I've used that method for all the years I've worked on Datsuns, nearly 40, and I've never broken a stud. *knock on wood*

...... and I've never broken a stud. *knock on wood*

now you said it ! ...murphy's law. i soaked my studs for 2 weeks with PB blaster 3x/day to put headers on. still broke 2 of 'em. no big deal as i had the motor out of the car on a stand...