How do I get this off...

[Zs-ondabrain]

The water tube can be unscrwed, with a bit of brute force, and brass plugged as SBlake01 said.

Carl said to use "a universal swivel, a 10" extension and the socket" That sounds about right. But if possible, use a 6-point socket instead of a universal 12 point. It's a tighter grip, in my opinion, and should do the trick.

I have small hands and am able to occasionally able to get a box wrench between the block and the exhaust manifold. I like the 8" long ones for more torque when removing those nuts. but I can't remember if it's possible to use those on stock manifolds, Headers are easier.

You circled the "Air injection tubes" They are the 6 small tubes that all go into the larger cross tube. It's not impossible to remove the nuts that hold those tubes to the manifold but few have been able to do it easily. Then and only if you get them out, brass plug them or Braze them shut.

As for that water line that comes out of the back carb and over to the passenger side "T" fitting. If you remove the water pipe from the thermostat housing, you'll need to do something about the "T" fitting. Most people use a bit of rubber water hose to clamp onto the "T" then fill the other end of the rubber hose with a bolt or plug and clamp it off. This will allow water to still go to the heater core and not dump out the open hole. You can also, instead, use a "Flushing T" to remove that "Y" pipe.

Don't forget to have the exhaust Manifold checked for flatness. maybe even take it to a shop for resurfacing. One thing I usually do when installing a used intake manifold is loosen the ballance tube bolts just before installing. This will help when the studs or bolts on the head don't wanna line up with the intake. After tightening the intakes, retighten the ballance tube bolts.

Did I miss anything? Probably.

Dave.

Edited September 21, 2008 by Zs-ondabrain

[xray]

I used a ratchet -style box end wrench, and worked from under the intake manifold. Some I could reach from above the manifold with an extension and universal. After a couple days soak with penetrant they came off pretty easily. There's typically one that gets left on (seems like it's the one hidden under #6, or blocked by the thermostat) so if you think you've got them all, double check!

Oh, and headers (particularly if coated) add no significant heat, and minimal engine noise.

Good luck!

[Carl Beck]

You need a universal swivel, a 10" extension and the socket... as I recall.

FWIW,

Carl B.

Reset - - - I should have said, it is BEST to have a set of metric swivel sockets. In the case of the intake/exhaust manifold - I can't remember if the nuts are 12mm or 14mm...

If you go to Sears for Craftsman - buy the individual swivel 6 point sockets - don't buy the 6 piece set - the set is missing the 14mm socket - one of the dumber things I've seen Craftsman do.. individually they run $8.50 for the 10 though 14mm sizes.. That will cover 95% of the things you need a swivel for on a 240-Z. The way Sears has them priced, you really don't save anything buying the 6 piece set anyway..

If you can afford Snap-On you'll always hate the price, but you'll never reqret the quality.

FWIW

Carl B.

Edited September 21, 2008 by Carl Beck

[Zs-ondabrain]

I love those things but there is a problem with using those on the intake/exhaust nuts. Most of the nuts sit back on the stud, just out of reach of that socket. Or at least that's been my experience with them. I usually go for the deep socket on a swivel.

I got a drawer full of those but they rarely get used unless it's for the head of a bolt, but almost useless on a nut that sits on a too long stud.

Good advice though, in most cases.

Dave.

[7277]

whatever method you use to take off the manifold wouldn't concern me...you should be concerned as if what if you break a manifold stud or two....BE WARNED if some break, you're in for a glorious drilling/tapping session...

[sblake01]

As Carl mentioned above, use Kroil. I might even do an application or two more than he suggested. Now I know this will sound like a 'tall tale' but I've used that method for all the years I've worked on Datsuns, nearly 40, and I've never broken a stud. *knock on wood*

[7277]

...... and I've never broken a stud. *knock on wood*

now you said it ! ...murphy's law. i soaked my studs for 2 weeks with PB blaster 3x/day to put headers on. still broke 2 of 'em. no big deal as i had the motor out of the car on a stand...