Jump to content

IGNORED

Battery Tray Removal


mally002

Recommended Posts

I did some searching about removing the tray and what I found involved a "spot weld cutter". For us newbies who do not own this tool what is the best way to remove the tray.

What few hits I got said something about the spot welds being drilled, I looked all over the tray and don't really see where these would be...am I just missing something very obvious?

On the side of the tray it looks like I could pry on it but I don't want to bend the tray, as I need to reuse it but I do need to get to the big hole under it.

Sooooo, how do I get this thing out with simple man tools......:stupid:

Link to comment
Share on other sites


From the picture on the eBay auction, I outlined the spot welds I could discern and guesstimated the location of the others.

Those are what you would drill out with the tool Arne located for you.

As far as buying the replacement metal, if your tray is already so far gone that it needs replaced, then probably the underlying fender metal may also be suspect, at which point that item makes perfect sense. If on the other hand your tray is just surface rusted, you'd be spending way too much money, IMO.

E

post-1490-14150804653067_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Actually my tray is fine, needs a good cleaning but very solid. I just need to remove it to get to the area under it.

Thanks Arne, I was under the impression a spot weld cutter was some type of actual welder.....so at least that is cleared up.

E, thanks for the locations on the picture, I'll go look again in the daylight.

Bob, if you ever figure this stuff out don't forget your Rookie friend here in TN. Maybe you and I together might be able to fix these darn things......:D.

Thanks guys,

Randy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Randy, In my case I have a hole under my tray I can stick my fist through, but my tray seems OK too. I was more concerned with what it will cost to fabricate the multiple radii on the replacement panel in that area so I figured I could salvage that section on this new part and if I don't need the new tray I could drop it back on EBay and see what I can get later. (It looks in perfect shape)I don't see my car going to the body repair guy for another year or so but I'll have the part on-hand now when it's time.

Edited by tibZ
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guys:

I recently had to remove the tray from my '72 before it went to sandblasting. The first thing to note is that you have to locate all the spot welds from inside the RH fender well. Thus, you need to remove whatever undercoating is in that region. Assuming you do a good job, you'll be able to see the numerous weld indentations.

You now have two choices. You can (1) use a punch tool to mark the center of each spot weld and then eventually place the self-centering point of the spot weld cutter on those locations or (2) use an 1/8" drill bit to drill through the spot welds (and likely the tray metal too) and these will serve to center the spot weld cutter later on. Either way, there will be holes that eventualy will need to be welded shut. Your choice.

After you use the cutter, you will have a fender well that looks somewhat like the attached picture of my car (looking back and upward at the firewall/wheel well intersection). The holes don't look pretty, but the tray is out and R&R can begin.

post-1248-14150804655351_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the reply Seppi,

I was able to mark the spots today and will hopefully get them drilled this week(I have to go buy the bits).

Do you guys know if the area right under the tray is a major structural point, I have a cantelope size hole that you can see your shoes thru.....Is it ok to just weld in a patch of sheet metal?

Thanks,

Randy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't be surprized if you miss one (or two) welds that are close in to the firewall. You'll see them soon enough when you go to pull the tray and it says "nuh uh."

I would say that the only structural involvement of the sheet metal under the battery tray is for "crumple" in the case of a bad shunt. A weld-in patch is, I believe, the SOP for fixing this region. Fortunately, I don't have this problem on my car but I do have probably 8 of the Top 10 rust issues. Testament to the powers of Iowa, West Virginia and Pennsylvania winters, I suppose.:cross-eye

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 857 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.