Well I have decided that since I already ordred my poly mustache bar bushings, I may as well install them. I know I need to leave my stock housings in the bar ends, but I need to know exactly how to remove the rubber from inside the housing.

My clever use of the search button has produced a trick that people are burning the bushing out of the collar. Also described as heating it up and then forcing the rubber out.

Can somebody elaborate on this before I take my torch and just melt the darn thing out!

Zedyone,

Torch removal works well, just heat until they burn, and they will fall out. Just do it in a well ventilated area. It does take alittle time.

Do not remove the pressed in metal sleves.

Mike

I have used another less toxic method. I think it is a bit faster too. Use a regular electric drill and drill a ton of holes into the rubber until you can pluck it out with a pair of pliers. Then just clean up the remaining rubber left stuck to the sleeve.

Good luck!

Marty

One thing to consider switching from the OEM to the Polly. Is this Z for use primarily on the street? I ask this because I just removed my Polly bushings and went back to OEM. The road sound and gear whine was driving me nuts on long cruises. Now the inside of my Z is at least 50% quieter. I notice no difference in handling at all. My 2 cts.

Gary:knockedou

Hold a butane torch on the rubber bushing till she starts burning....it ain't nothing to it.....like mentioned above, don't drive the metal insert out and do it outside......it's almost fun if you're a "Pyro".

I just got a kit from MS - don't think I will install the m/b bushings for the reason Beandip mentioned. My 280 has the poly all through (except outer control arms) and it is loud.

I am only doing the stuff thats essential due to decay.

Well put gents. I have something to think about. As my bushings in the mustache bar currently look brand new, I may not replace them. They are not cracks and are even still a bit soft and rubbery. THe PO said all the rubber was replaced. I have found that to be only 80% true, so I have to check everything. I will decide what to do later. I think I found my clunk and I am pretty sure it had nothing to do with the mustache bar.

Funny, I use Prothane bushings and did have to use torches or anything. Did I miss something?

Brian......If you didn't have to burn 'em, someone did it before you got it.

Well put gents. I have something to think about. As my bushings in the mustache bar currently look brand new, I may not replace them. They are not cracks and are even still a bit soft and rubbery. THe PO said all the rubber was replaced. I have found that to be only 80% true, so I have to check everything. I will decide what to do later. I think I found my clunk and I am pretty sure it had nothing to do with the mustache bar.

Well, you do know how to keep a secret, don't you???:classic:

Its in my other clunk thread!.. Sorry Frank...the cliff notes version is this.

I was crawling around under my car and thought to check out the transmission mount. Well I can push up on the tranny an easy 1/4" and the mount stays on the cross member. Its obviously shot. I think that this is where the sound was coming from all along, and it makes sense, as the sound did seem like it came from the center of the car more than the rear! Parts are ordered. I will get a picture of the current mount when I take it off next weekend.

Zedyone,

Torch removal works well, just heat until they burn, and they will fall out. Just do it in a well ventilated area. It does take alittle time.

Do not remove the pressed in metal sleves.

Mike

I have used another less toxic method. I think it is a bit faster too. Use a regular electric drill and drill a ton of holes into the rubber until you can pluck it out with a pair of pliers. Then just clean up the remaining rubber left stuck to the sleeve.

Good luck!

Marty

Hello guys. I just want to verify this. I have removed the factory mustache bar bushings (using Marty's drill technique which worked very nicely) and cleaned up the residue as shown in before and after photos. The mustache bar will be painted, and Nissan rubber bushings (PN 55476N4300) will be installed. So, as posted by Marty and clayton 260Z, the sleeve inside the loop ends is not removed, correct?

Gary S.