S130 battery tray rust/removal/repair

[zbane]

All Z cars seem to be rather prone to rust, we all know that (generally from personal experience), and for whatever reason we all share issues with the battery tray.

I knew that mine was rather bad, and finally tried to do something about it.

First off, I don't have many tools. I have no welder, not even a power drill. Being both tool-less and generally clue-less can (and does) cause problems.

Remember, I'm the one that pulled off the fenders just to change a headlight...

So...

In my case it was actually good that my tray was so rusty, it made it much easier to remove with a hammer, my tire iron (chisel), and dremel.

The S130 battery tray is supported by a solid piece of metal that does a wonderful job of collecting leaves, pine needles, and dirt between it and the inner fender area. No amount of coercion will get all of it out, and I knew it would be getting bad in there and I had to do something about it sooner or later. Besides, the top side was already missing some metal. Might as well get to it.

Once I got the tray out, I decided that I would attach a hinge on the inner well that would allow me to periodically clean out the aforementioned area. The bottom edge would be attached by screws, using the holes where the pop rivets/spot welds had been.

In order for this to work, I had to trim some of the metal off the bottom edge; the wiring harness wouldn't allow the unit to pivot up as I wished, so I cut a bit off. Using the part that I had severed, I fashioned a bridge to connect the area that was completely gone from rust.

To attach, I used good old JB Weld.

Before doing that I stripped off all the paint (it was only primered underneath), used metal ready to neutralize the rust that was there (it took several treatments, even after I had sandpapered quite a bit off).

Edited October 5, 2008 by zbane

[zbane]

After the metal ready, I attached the hinge with more JB then shot the piece with Rust Converter primer followed with rustoleum primer, then rubberized undercoating, then two coats of rustoleum enamel.

I did the same to the engine bay, aligned the piece and marked where holes would be drilled. After tapping a hole into the metal, I dremeled the indentations until they were large enough to accept the screws.

It's by no means perfect, and it is obvious that it's an amateur job when up close, but it does the trick and looks much better than it did before.

[Broken-Z]

Looks to me like you did a pretty good job! Bodywork can be tricky even for the expierienced body man.With minimum expierience and a shortage of tools,

the job came out fine.Congrats. You can google autobody forum,I had a link to a good one in the past but I can't seem to find it. I When I locate it I'll post it for you.

[Broken-Z]

Here's the link.Go to pro forum.

http://www.autobodypro.com/index.html

[Kathy & Rick]

Hi, Dave, Rick here.

I admire your creativity for being tool-handicapped; fine job.

Our "new" 79 ZX also has some interesting collections between the

battery tray (bracket) and fender, such as the dirt, leaves, pine

needles, and such that you mentioned, plus a very large, dense

mouse nest complete with acorn shells, thread, insulation, etc.

This mouse must have had a degree in architectural engineering!!

Since your hinge didn't offer you the clearances you needed, I appre-

ciated the "heads-up." I think what I will do instead begins w/using

the valve stem stubs I scrounged up, as grommets. If I bore holes

barely large enough to accept them, I can paint the holes, install the

"grommets", and not chew the paint off every time I remove the battery

tray due to each sheet metal screw going into the hole in the "grommet."

I suppose a machine screw would work just as well, as long as it fits

tightly enough to get a good "bite" into the wall of the "grommet."

FWIW..............All Z Best,.......................Kathy & Rick

[Mikez73]

zbane: That looks good. You really need to buy a drill and wirebrush cup at least