New Slave.....No Result

[mally002]

Ok, I lied. I said I was going to walk away from the car for awhile, but it's raining today so the only thing to do was work on the car. I installed a brand new clutch slave cylinder and bleed the system and the clutch pedal is still as limpy as an over worked porn star.

To me it looks like the issue is with the withdrawl arm...(I hope thats the right term) When the clutch is pumped the arm just barely moves. When I removed the new cylinder and pumped the pedal the rod coming out of the plastic shroud just moves a little. I can move the withdrawl arm with my fingers, and then when everything is bolted back up and the clutch is pumped the arm just barely moves again........There is just absolutley no resistance at all.

Any thoughts.

Randy

[doradox]

Ok, I lied. I said I was going to walk away from the car for awhile, but it's raining today so the only thing to do was work on the car. I installed a brand new clutch slave cylinder and bleed the system and the clutch pedal is still as limpy as an over worked porn star.

To me it looks like the issue is with the withdrawl arm...(I hope thats the right term) When the clutch is pumped the arm just barely moves. When I removed the new cylinder and pumped the pedal the rod coming out of the plastic shroud just moves a little. I can move the withdrawl arm with my fingers, and then when everything is bolted back up and the clutch is pumped the arm just barely moves again........There is just absolutley no resistance at all.

Any thoughts.

Randy

Either you still have air in the system, your clutch master cylinder is bad, or the clutch pedal to master cylinder linkage is out of adjustment or missing. Usually if the slave won't move it's because there is no pressure generated by the master or there's too much air.

Steve

[Friar-Tuck]

Linky to exploded view of Master cyl for brakes, same principle for clutch except obviously you only have one piston and resivoir.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/master-brake1.htm

Hang in There Kiddo!

Tuck\o/

Edited October 8, 2008 by Friar-Tuck

[Neumeier]

If you are replacing the slave cylinder you also need to replace or rebuild the master cylinder. Each one is subjected to similar wear. I also recommend replacing the rubber hose leading to the slave cylinder. They sometimes swell up internally, restricting fluid flow (same can happen in a brake hydraulic system). Once you have changed these parts, then you can bleed the system. My guess is that your problem will be solved since it definitely seems to be limited to the hydraulic system. The master cylinder is easy to rebuild. I believe you need to disconnect the pushrod at the top of your clutch pedal (i.e. in the passenger compartment) before you can pull the master cylinder out.

Good Luck!!

[george71z]

Check your master; I have let mine go dry whilst bleeding and had to start all over. Sure sounds like Steve is right. You should get about 1" to 1 1/2" of throw on the rod. Also check that the clevis pin at the pedal to master cyl. actuator has not fallen out. ( I have had this happen too!)

[mally002]

Thanks guys,

I got the master cylinder off and ordered a new one. I filled the old one up after it was off and pressed the piston....got a few squirts but nothing steady. I put my finger over the hole that feeds the line to the slave and again pumped the piston and noticed it did provide suction on my finger and then would give a pretty good squirt for one or two pumps, then nothing.

Does it sound like its bad? I have no idea, but since it will soon have a new master cyl and slave cyl surely it will work then.

Here's a picture showing what I covered up in Red, it seemed to pump ok but I guess there is no way of testing the old one??....maybe the pistons inside are bad.

[Diseazd]

Randy......you're starting to get into it aren't you? Careful or you'll be an expert on the 240Z clutch! Good Luck......Guy

[a7dz]

I put both a new slave and master cylinder in my 70 and there is very little resistance on the pedal. The good news is it operates. I am going to put the return spring back on mine that was on the early cars. Talking with Arne his car has low pressure also.

[doradox]

When you get the new master check that the rod is the same as your old one. I recently bought a new one and the rod was about a 3/4 inch too short so I had to to use the old rod.

Steve

[a7dz]

When you get the new master check that the rod is the same as your old one. I recently bought a new one and the rod was about a 3/4 inch too short so I had to to use the old rod.

Steve

I also had to use the old rod. The replacement was too short. I still do not understand the lack of pressure. The rod moves about an inch.

[mally002]

Randy......you're starting to get into it aren't you? Careful or you'll be an expert on the 240Z clutch! Good Luck......Guy

Yea, you caught me enjoying some work......I really had a bad day on Monday...

The old rod does move about an inch, so hopefully the inside is shot and the new master will bring everything into focus. I do have a return spring already installed, but it didn't matter how many times I pumped the clutch or bleed it the resistance never changed.

I'll let you know tomorrow if it works.

Edited October 9, 2008 by mally002

[xray]

similar problem...same solution

I echo the above sentiments. I replaced everything in the clutch hydraulics--master, slave, steel line, flexible line--on my 240Z restoration and still had no pressure until I used the old rod and got the linkage adjusted correctly. Don't toss in the towel if putting on the new parts doesn't immediately solve the problem. Some adjustment is required....