New Slave.....No Result

[mally002]

Got the new Master on, the new Slave on, new fluid, new hoses, and the same result.....Good thing I spent $100 to do nothing.

The clutch still has no resistance except for the spring bringing it back up, you can push the pedal down with your finger.

I pulled the slave back off just to make sure it was getting feed, it is and when the slave is back on the push rod doesnt move that much...is that normal, could I have a bad slave. This thing really has me confused.

What next.....$85 an hour at the shop I guess.

quick edit....the new master matched right up with the old so I didn't reuse the rod. Steve when you say adjustment do you mean to adjust the pedal linkage, right now it's back all the way on the threads, if I turn it in it pulls the pedal toward the floor. Also when I depress the clutch it is moving the master rod about an inch with no resistance, should it be moving more?

Edited October 9, 2008 by mally002

[Neumeier]

Would you please explain to us the procedure you are using to bleed the system.

[mally002]

Hey John,

After I installed the new master I filled with fluid and had my son push the pedal 20-30 times, then I turned the bleed valve on the slave to purge the air. We repeated this numerous times. I then used clear tubing from the bleed valve on the slave and ran it into fresh fluid and repeated the procedure, air would come out then steady fluid. After all of this at no time did the resistance to the clutch change.

Am I doing something wrong? I will admit I have never bleed or installed a slave and master cylinder before.

[sblake01]

At the point where you got a stedy stream of fluid with no air, did you hold the pedal down and then close the valve?

[mally002]

At the point where you got a stedy stream of fluid with no air, did you hold the pedal down and then close the valve?

Yes Sir......

[JoelH]

If the Z is a 71 then there is an adjustment do be done on the slave rod. I just replaced mine recently and had to make several adjustments to get it right.

I don't quite understand, someone is pushing the clutch pedal and you are watching the rod move but not the clutch fork? I don't see how that can be.

[mally002]

You lost me.....the clutch fork is moving the piston, but there is no resistance.

The car is a 73, I just tried to adjust the fork by turning it in and when I let the clutch out it pulled the whole piston and locking ring off.......

Now I have to pull the whole master back off and reattach the piston.....This car is haunted and hates me......(where's the scrap yard, maybe the car heard me and will start behaving).

So, in a nut shell here's the deal:

New Master, Slave, Hoses, and Fluid. After the frustration of attaching the fork on the inside of the car when you press on the clutch pedal there is no resistance. Bleed the system several different ways and no resistance. Tried adjusting the interior fork on the master piston and the first time I tried it it pulled the locking ring off and piston off.

When everything was on the car I could verify that the fluid was being transfered from the master to the slave, I could verify that when the pedal was pushed the fork was pushing the rod into the master and causing fluid to travel to the slave. I could verify that when I turned the bleed valve on the slave that air was expelled. But non of this mattered as there never once was resistance to the clutch.

WHO WANTS A 240Z............j/k of course.

Soooooo, I don't know what else to do..............

Taking a break for the next two hours and taking my son to the gym to work out some frustration....Hope he lets me win in Basketball.

[Bruce Palmer]

For every pump up (3 or 4 slow pumps should be plenty) and open-the-slave cycle, does the level in the resevoir drop some? Man, this is frustrating trying to do via the written word.....

[sblake01]

I think were getting mixed up on terminology here. The clutch fork is the withdrawal lever. Is the push rod from the slave cylinder moving the withdrawal lever?

[tibZ]

Does the withdrawer lever coming out of the transmission move when you depress the pedal? I'm wondering if it is still connected to the throughout bearing?? Can you move it back and forth when you have the slave cylinder off? I think if you put it neutral you should be able to move it by hand but if it moves up and down it may not be attached to the bearing. Good luck, With all the experts on this site you will fix it eventually, all part of the fun..........time and money.

[tibZ]

Whoops, sorry Steve, you were posting while I was typing....same subject though.

[xray]

step back, take a deep cleansing breath and let's reset.

I had this same problem, as mentioned above. If you have a new master, new slave, solid pipes and no leaks in the rubber flexible tube, you're set. What you need is to generate enough hydraulic force from the pedal on the rod of the master to transfer force to the slave which engages the piston, moves that rod, then the fork then the clutch....The master and slave I have (1972 MY) are adjustable, and I think you have too much free travel in one or both such that you can't generated the correct amount of pressure. I've attached pics where my adjustment nuts are located--perhaps this could be a starting point? The pic SBlake provided shows that the pedal and rod are on the same side of the lever's fulcrum, so you want the length on the master cylinder rod that generates the most pressure and travel. Start by shortening that rod, then check to see if you can squirt fluid out when you pump the pedal. Then turn your attention to the slave and make adjustments there until you get good clutch engagement/disengagement (after attaching the master to the lines, filling with fluid, bleeding etc.) You may have to go between the two to get it right, but stick with it and be patient.

Edited October 10, 2008 by xray