This is one thing that I never thought about until it happened to me. I went to the 7-11 down the street from my house and at that time I was having problems starting my 75 280. I went to pull the hood latch cable & all of a sudden the whole cable came out with my hand so I pushed it back in. I thought for a minute and then tried it again. Well it sure didn't do me any good. I sat there for a while until she decided to finally start and I went home. All of you classic Z car owners- best put a back-up cable so that you won't have the same trouble. If you do have this problem then e-mail me & I can tell you what to make to open the hood of your own Z.

Stacey Pike- Cornish

El Cajon, Calif.

1975 280 Z Coupe

HLS30221148

"Drive Fast- Take Chances"

I've always wondered what would happen if the end of the cable broke...

How would you be able to get at that lever to pop it open again?

There's a thread or two somewhere on that subject.

You'd have to get it up in the air to get at it from underneath I'd guess. Luckily when my hood release cable snapped it did it right where the knob attaches on the inside of the vehicle.

One of the very first threads I ever read about a Z-car was about this very subject. I knew I never wanted it to happen to me so this is what I did. :bulb:

I got a peice of steel cable (picture frame wire) about 3 foot long and two split shot fishing sinkers. Took the hood latch off its mount and ran a loop of cable through the pulling lever and secured it with the split shot sinkers.

Then ran the cable across the firewall, over the brake booster valve and the wire loom holder (bendable metal tab) then at a right angle straight down to the bendable metal tab that holds the spedo cable and wrapped the excess around it.

If my hood release cable ever breaks I just find the end of the spare cable at the spedo cable holder and pull. It pays for itself when used just once. The only visible part of it is where the cable goes down the firewall. Nothing shows where the latch and mount are.

This fix was less than $1.50 and about 15 minutes to install. No lift or long armed 'monkey boy' to get the hood open now.

Bonzi Lon

  sblake01 said:

There's a thread or two somewhere on that subject.

Or three or four.....

Although this is in the "Engine and Drivetrain" section My adding to the thread is relavent.

I plan on doing something similar to the 260Z. I've found that most hood cables bind at some point or another as well as rust and slowly fall apart. This is obviously a problem when it's the only way to open the hood.

I plan on using a 15LB Solenoid, placed in the cowl area (towards the drivers side of the wiper motor) and the cable will go thru the firewall, 6" from the hood release mechanism. I'll also attach a Loop into the cable so that a "secondary" cable can be attached and ran to a hidden yet accessible area for emergencies.

And the release button will replace the release handle, most likely in the same area. Having the hood release electronic also allows for the accessory channel on a keyless entry or alarm system to "Pop" the hood via the remote.

Pretty cool huh?

Dave.

That is a great idea for a Z Dave, but I wouldn't let it get out on other forums where the hood opens the other way. Can you imagine a "what's this button for" at 70mph? Better have a good secondary catch.:eek:

That would only really be a problem if the hood opened the other way...........

You mean to tell me that there are other cars who's hoods open from the front? That's Ludicris!! The only hoods I open are opened near the windshield. HAHAHA

Anyways, I'm gonna go bullistic on the 260Z..

Shaved door handles w/ Door poppers and a hidden in plain site switch

Electric door locks (because of the almost visible push buttton handle)

-OR- relay controlled power wire so it won't open when armed

Electric windows

Shaved Hatch w/ electric hatch pop w/ Linear actuator to open it (still dual hatch strut assisted)

Electric hood pop w/ 4" linear actuator (still spring assisted) w/ back up cable pull

Shaved Fuel door (modern style, no handle, lock or lip)

Frenched or shaved power antenna w/ trap door

Mirrors w/ turn signal LED's

Smoothed side markers with LED "Z"s

LED lit quarter panel emblems

LED taillights and front markers.

I'm sure there will be more but only the budget will tell. I hope to have her done in time for MSA in April and find someone to drive it down with me and Leah in the 70'

Dave.

Well, in my experience, these cables don't often break all at once. They wear and fray over several years time, until finally the few remaining wires part. So if you should - heaven forbid - take the time to check it now and then, you can catch it long before it breaks. A new cable assembly from Nissan (part number 65640-N3300) is about $35 brand new, comes with the pull handle and mounting bracket. I think it even came with the firewall grommet pre-installed. I replaced mine last year. I don't expect to have to do so again for many more years.

I am a fisherman and I had some stainless wire used for making spinners. 350 lb. Test #18 Cheep at the tackle shop. I connected it to the latch and ran it via the holders on the firewall where the hoses run for the washer I put the wire through the firewall grommet where the speedo cable enters the cabin. I made a little handle from some 1/4'' vinyl hose and left it hang up under the dash out of sight. I have had a cable part once but it was easy to open with this in place. Gary