hey all, would like advice on installing this sucker into my 240.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Carter/180/P4070/10002/-1?CT=999&sendroicid=1b2a8f2f-b67c-4565-bcce-c050beadb5cd&sendroiad=1664067099&sendroikwd=Carter+P4070&gclid=CJGz2bOep5YCFSUqHgodRW-Dzg

according to the datsunzgarage site, the author gives it good marks. just curious on the electrics. a + from the keyed "ON" and "START" position and ground to body?

i'd hang it right off the undercarraige, close to the tank with an additional filter. just need advice on electrics.

thanks!

whatever pump gets you 4 psi should be fine. flow rate according to the 1973 fsm is 1600cc/min which is right around 24gph. I bought a Facet pump from NAPA which works fine.

I suppose you know already about the existing wiring. If not, here's the layout:

1) At the driver's side near the defrost panel and left side of the heater bezel is a random-appearing connector secured by blue tape. There's a green wire and a black with white tracer. Jump that with an inline 20amp fuse. This connects the fuel pump to the ignition circuit and (at least on my car) allows the pump to run on Start and Run positions

2) By the gas tank on the passenger side is another butt connector secured by blue tape, attached to the branch of the wiring harness near the fuel gauge sending unit wires. Green is hot, black is ground (already grounded near the rear of the body.

I connected my pump to the rear suspension piece as depicted below.

Nice install and good info!

This link should go to another install with an inertia switch.

Post # 10 has a wiring diagram

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24026&highlight=fuel+pump+installation

Tuck\o/

thanks tuck...I forgot those pics were a year old! Since then I installed an inertia-type cutoff switch on the firewall, in line with the fused jumper....

hey xray, thanks for the detailed answer.

however, as i interpret your writing,

1) "there's a green wire and a black with a white tracer"... do you mean basically, connect them together with a fuse in between, at the console area?. does that 'jumped' connection then travel to the 'green' wire in the rear of car as described in your # 2). basically, so as not to have to run a solo (+) wire from the console to the rear underside of the car.

pardon my interpretation, but that's how i read it )

i'm also a tad custy with the hand drawn schematic depicting inertia switch and relay.....not sure i follow that one...

i may have to hit up my dad on that. he's a retired electrical engineer....weird guy, my dad, but i respect his 170+ I.Q. ...(if YOU can't design a military-grade spy satellite...why should HE bother explaining to YOU basic electrical....)..unfortunately, i never inherited that gene....

Edited October 15, 200816 yr by 7277

In my opinion that Carter pump is anything but quite. It is a constant buzzzzzz in my car.. a loud buzzzzzz too. Could be partly where I had to mount it (in the tool pocket behind the seat... but it was mounted with rubber isolators etc.

If you don't really need a competition pump - I'd be looking for one that is quite.. or less noisy.

just my experience..

Carl B.

hey xray, thanks for the detailed answer.

however, as i interpret your writing,

1) "there's a green wire and a black with a white tracer"... do you mean basically, connect them together with a fuse in between, at the console area?. does that 'jumped' connection then travel to the 'green' wire in the rear of car as described in your # 2). basically, so as not to have to run a solo (+) wire from the console to the rear underside of the car.

pardon my interpretation, but that's how i read it )

i'm also a tad custy with the hand drawn schematic depicting inertia switch and relay.....not sure i follow that one...

i may have to hit up my dad on that. he's a retired electrical engineer....weird guy, my dad, but i respect his 170+ I.Q. ...(if YOU can't design a military-grade spy satellite...why should HE bother explaining to YOU basic electrical....)..unfortunately, i never inherited that gene....

Yup...the green is power/hot from the fuel pump. The black with white trace connects to the fuseblock and subsequently to the ignition circuit. See the 1973 FSM section BE-6, or see if someone can link a copy of the wiring diagram.

I have also heard the Carter pump to be loud. The Facet pump I installed is faintly audible if you put the key in RUN without starting the engine, then is nearly silent once the system pressurizes. I also used several rubber grommets on the installation bolts to act as vibration dampers, and IMO it works very well.

thanks guys. i'll snoop around the car and locate the wires as you described and see what happens.

perhaps i'll try the Facet pump since i can get it locally.

i'll keep you posted with progress.

hey steve, so i climbed under there and located everything. just to confirm: is this right? (pic)

That looks right to me. The black wire at the rear engine harness runs to a ground along the rear "frame rail" near the rear valance and gas tank. Tough to reach with the tank in place, but if you can it may be helpful to unscrew that ground, sand off the rust and reset the ground screw. I see no reason why you couldn't ground the pump separately, so that may be an option if the wiring looks suspicious.

Here's a bad photo of the electrical diagram of the involved circuit. Hope it helps

thanks steve! now to get a pump.

i usually test-connect everything in a temporaryily connected way, before perminently cutting soldering/adding connectors, etc.

turns out i had that schematic in my arsenal, just wasn't sure what to look for (the fuse block diagram)

i let you know how she goes

Edited October 15, 200816 yr by 7277