ZX Dizzy upgrade

[Weasel73240Z]

Just finished installing the ZX dizzy into my 73. The wiring diagram I was working off of didn't say what to do with the yellow wire that went to the old points. Should I just tape/cap and leave it, or is it supposed to be wired to something?

[Zs-ondabrain]

The only yellowish or faded white/yellow wire should be going to the temp unit.

[Weasel73240Z]

You're right, the yellow wire goes to the temp sensor, the wire I'm talking about used to go the the points on the side of the old points dizzy. Where does it go now that the points are gone?

Edited October 26, 2008 by Weasel73240Z

[sblake01]

You're right, the yellow wire goes to the temp sensor, the wire I'm talking about used to go the the points on the side of the old points dizzy. Where does it go now that the points are gone?

Probably nowhere. Did that wire come from the ballast resistor? You've basically replaced that wire as diagrams for the E12-80 conversion have a switched 12v running to the distributor.

[Weasel73240Z]

I thought it was useless at this point, I'll just cut it off and cap it.

[Zs-ondabrain]

If you're worried about noise thru the stero system, re-attach that wire to another condensor and ground it.

The points caused haveck but since you're now going electronic, it's not likely to be needed.

Dave.

[Weasel73240Z]

I just completed the ignition system. 1979 280 ZX dizzy, MSD Blaster 2 coil, new 8mm NGK wires and NGK plugs (gapped to .45). All I can say is, WOW.

Anyone who hasn't done this upgrade yet, you should.

I think I may have to replace the vacuum advance though. It pulls incredibly well up to about 5,200 RPM, then it seems to plateau. The advance moves using the old "suck" test, but only turns the base plate about 1/8". Should it advance more than that? It doesn't seem like it moves as much as the old points dizzy did using the suck test. By suck test, I mean I put my mouth on the vac tube, and sucked.

[cunniwj]

Weasel, I'm thinking of upgrading to a ZX dizzy.Is there a difference between the 79 and the other year ZX's. Does it really make that much of a difference? Is there a web site that shows you how to do it for those's that are not that mechanicaly inclined?

[sblake01]

I thought it was useless at this point, I'll just cut it off and cap it.

I'm glad you didn't say 'pointless'!:classic: But to answer your question, yes, it should move more than 1/8". The fact that it moves is a good sign. Sounds like it just needs some cleaning and lubing. That would raise your 'plateau' up the scale a bit. My 810 (w/E12-80) pulls beyond 6K though I don't really know how far beyond because that's about as far as I ever take it.

[Weasel73240Z]

I'm not the best guy to tell you what years are best, but you want one with the E12-80 module. If you search for dizzy upgrade you'll find the wiring diagram I used. It's simple, and takes about an hour to do.

Thanks Stephen, I'll take it apart over the weekend and see what I find.

Edited October 30, 2008 by Weasel73240Z

[Arne]

The base distributors from '79-83 (non-turbo) are all pretty much the same. The '79-80 dizzies came with the E12-80 ignitor module, which is the preferred (simplest) module to use. The later modules apparently can be used with a little extra wiring, I've heard. And any of the '79-83 modules will fit an any of the '79-83 dizzies.

[Zs-ondabrain]

And the later models occasionally came with dual vaccums.

If you can't find the diagram.........

© on the E12-80 to the coils (-) terminal, like normal

( on the E12-80 to the coils (+) terminal

Bypass the Ballast resistor by connecting the 2 wires on the ballast to each other (I used a jumper wire from bolt to bolt) And keep the previous dizzy and parts in the storage area just in case. And for Gods sake, carry a tool bag with you at all times, It's a Z, it has as much attitude as a punk rock girl who's eyeliner is running.

Dave