Starter Doesn't Engage (out of nowhere)

[ktm]

All of this "electrical" trouble-shooting and no reference at all to whether or not you are using a multimeter. How do you know the wire to the starter solenoid is ok unless you've tested it with a multimeter?

Granted, your ignition switch may be toast, but you really need a multimeter to diagnose eletrical issues.

[mikewags]

I got home and the car has been starting ever since. I need to get this sorted maybe tonight (ill check the ignition switch) although power was getting to the starter (tested with light) ...

These problems are a pain, when they come and go. It makes it hard to use the car without worrying if it will do it again while out and about.

[geezer]

Intermittant power outages can be difficult to track down. Your best option is to systematicaly check and clean all connections and do as Bo says. Get a multimeter, and learn how to use it. Then if it happens again, you will be able to find the problem. Anyone with an old Z with the original wiring should have a good wiring diagram, a multimeter and aquire some basic knowledge.

[mikewags]

Drove the Z to work today...wanted to see if the problem would come back...sure enough did! Well, maybe i can fix it while at work now --- or i'll be push starting the car to get home...

UPDATE: And now the car is starting again fine. Whatever is causing this really does make it an intermittent problem.

Edited October 29, 2008 by mikewags

[Nissanman]

Intermittent translates to ANNOYING!:tapemouth

If it fails to start, there is no need to push the car.

Jumper the solenoid S terminal to the main battery connection, HT, and starter will operate.

Have the IGN key in the ON position and Handbrake firmly on and OUT OF GEAR.

In other words, set the car up as you would normally but bypass the IGN START position with the bridging of the terminals.

You only need a short length of 10A wire to do the deed:cool:

The only wrinkle with this method, and lets face it, it is an emergency/temporary fix, is that the IGNITION BALLAST resistor is not switched out of circuit.

[sblake01]

That may only be part of the problem. Remember it's an EFI car with electronic ignition, no ballast resistor. If that switch is bad to the point where it's not energizing the starter, it might not be energizing the ingition relay or the fuel pump either. Check the switch as diagrammed in post 12. That way you can confirm that it's the problem or rule it out.

[Nissanman]

You're right, my mistook:stupid:

The START function on the IGN SWITCH also signals the main START relay and the ECU.

Without those signals, no worky:dead:

[mikewags]

After work I was able to start the car fine and drive home. Upon getting home, the car went back to its no-start state. This problem is truly intermittent, and time away will tend to fix it.

Anyways...

Me and my friend set out to fix this. He's a good mechanic with a pretty solid knowledge of electrical...

1. Starter was tested, it's fine.

2. Tested voltage from battery to starter. That is fine as well, full 12 volts.

3. Tested the ignition wire with light - It was functioning correctly. Upon testing the ignition wire with the multimeter, it was once at 12 - then dropped to 9. The current wasn't consistently strong enough .

The end of the ignition wire was corroded so we snipped it off and replaced it. That didn't help much.

The quick fix: Relay was hooked up to the ignition wire and battery. Ignition wire will send the weaker current to the RELAY, which will then open up the full 12 v from the battery to the starter.

I will test this tomorrow when I go to work, and throughout the day to see if the weaker current was the real problem. From what i've gathered though, the ignition switch is fine (and that's a relief). We suspect the ignition wire itself is bad or has become internally corroded over the years.

Opinions?

[sblake01]

From what i've gathered though, the ignition switch is fine

Don't gather....test it! It's the easiest thing to test in what you're trying to troubleshoot. If the contact areas inside of it are iffy it will cause the problems you're having.

Such as:

Upon testing the ignition wire with the multimeter, it was once at 12 - then dropped to 9. The current wasn't consistently strong enough .

Which you followed with:

The end of the ignition wire was corroded so we snipped it off and replaced it. That didn't help much.

If the continuity in the switch isn't solid in the ACC, ON, and START positions, you'll have problems. BTDT.

Edited October 30, 2008 by sblake01

[OniZ]

i'm having the same problem is it possible to use a ign switch out of a different year Z. I have a 71 and have access to a 78 Z.

[EScanlon]

If memory serves, from other posts, the electrical Switch IS the same up to 78. Not sure for 79's and up.

E