I'm thinking about putting a rear BRE spoiler on my 71 resto. I don't know anything about how they are attached etc. Are they bolted on to the tailgate and if so what keeps water from entering the bolt holes and rusting the metal? Do you think the juice is worth the squeeze? I like the look!

I don't know for sure, but I was told I had a BRE spoiler on mine before I bought it. I was told by a person on this board that saw my car, another from someone at a Z-Car show I went to.

Apparently they could tell by the bolt holes drilled into the rear hatch - so it's an assumption that it is, in fact, bolted. Since I don't have the spoiler, I don't know how water was prevented from getting in...sorry

Mine bolted to the tail gate - on the outside edges, where the decklid closes over the water drain area - and as I recall, two holes in the deck lid itself - just above the rubber plugs in the lower edge. Water runs in the areas anyway...

With the BRE style Spook and Spoiler the Z is much more stable at highway speeds. The rear spoiler also seems to reduce the intrusion of exhaust gases into the cabin. I've had mine on since 72, and so far there hasn't been a problem with rust. I coated the studs in the spook with RTV before bolting the spoiler on...

I also have another 72, with only the front Spook.. for the most part it is used to cruise longer highway trips at 75/80 mph. It is fine, but I do notice when passing large trucks, or driving in heavy cross winds, that it isn't quite as "locked down" as the Z with both.

Adding the front Spook without the rear spoiler - actually increases lift at the rear, even though it greatly increases down force on the front. If you like the look, I'd say add them both.

FWIW,

Carl B.

Edited October 31, 200816 yr by Carl Beck

My vote is for both spoilers. I wish I could do something to prevent the exhaust gasses from coming in through the truck of my 510 Kills me when the windows are rolled down as it seems to create a vacuum

If you like the look, I'd say to do it. I'm quite certain that once you have one in hand that you'll be able to figure a way to seal the holes. And as Carl noted, the benefits are fairly well documented.

I thought about adding one to mine when I painted it, but decided that while I do like the BRE rear spoilers, I still prefer the look of the rear end of a Z without. But that's totally personal.

This is the backside of an original BRE rear spoiler. It's just as Carl describes with two mounting studs on the outside edges of each side that correspond with the drainage channel and another further inboard on each side, that were cut off and not used on this one. I would use only the outer mounting studs and perhaps a good adhesive on the inboard locations.

PS - I have been considering using rare earth magnets instead of adhesive on the inboard mounting points.

Edited October 31, 200816 yr by geezer

I have a 432 rear spoiler, there are 4 mounting bolts that go right thru the skin on the hatch.

I have the MSA rear spoiler. It also requires drilling holes in the top of the tailgate to mount it down.

Fit is good, but I'm not happy with the open cell foam gasket they have on it. I'll be replacing it down the road with closed cell neoprene.

geezer,

My dad and I are having a debate regarding the exterior appearance of the spoiler you posted. I recall that spoiler having a raised or indented section along the right side which looks like it is for an emblem. Is that right or am I thinking of another spoiler i.e. the 432?

I know that Eiji's orange G nose car has the rear spoiler I am referring to.

Edited October 31, 200816 yr by Zero Z

The original BRE spoiler is the same as the 432 spoiler. Peter Brock used the 432 spoiler on the BRE 240Z's. There is a flat section on the back for an emblem should you desire to install one.

By flat section do you mean a small flat section only wide enough for an emblem not the whole width of the spoiler.

My vote is for both spoilers. I wish I could do something to prevent the exhaust gasses from coming in through the truck of my 510 Kills me when the windows are rolled down as it seems to create a vacuum

It creates a lower pressure area inside the car, "relative" to the higher pressure area outside the trunk lid/tail lights. You have to make sure your trunk lid seals are working, seal all area's around the tail lights and make sure the seam sealers in the body haven't dried out and cracked. Past that point you have to have the tail pipe extend at least 1.5 to 2 inches past the end of the bumper.

Take a strip of cloth about 3" wide by 12" long. Place it over the trunk lid seals and close the trunk lid on it. Then see how much pressure it takes to pull it out. If it pulls out easily, either your seals are shot, or your trunk lid is adjusted incorrectly. Over the years trunk lids can also get warped, and fail to mate properly on top of the seal. Try that test at several places around the seal.

It's pretty much the same on the Z's. On the Z's the rear spoiler moves the higher pressure area behind the car farther back, away from the tail lights.

FWIW,

Carl B.