Anyone know what a trimmed out 280Z (FI) N42 engine weighs in at? I am getting an engine stand and there is a $200USD difference between the 750LB model and teh 1ton model.

I really dont want a stand that could hold a mack truck engine -- just one to support my straight 6 for rebuild...

750lb model should work OK, I'd go with a 1000lb if you can find one. Complete engine is probably in the 450 plus range so if you do any torqueing on the engine while it's on the stand it may not be as sturdy as you would like. Be sure to get one with wide legs, or adjustable ones. The wider the better, some are so narrow that just moving it across the floor is almost impossible without tipping it all over.

Thanks 2manyZs! BTW -- I never found the post on removing the rear control arm pins... Any sage advice? I have my FSM, but have not researche dit yet -- busy ripping my spare motor down and trying to make space in my 1 car garage.

Sage advice? Have someone who has done it before, do it for you. That's probably the best piece of advice, not the answer you were looking for though.

Before you take it apart, I would invest in two new spindle pins, tapered lock pins and of course bushings. That way if you have to ruin the pins that are in there when you try to remove them, you already have new ones in your hands. Motorsport Auto has them, not too expensive, but a lifesaver if the old ones are stubborn.

Try using the Search this site function in the Main menu. Look for control arm spindle pins. Or look through the Help Me forum or suspension forum. There have been numerous memebers before you who have experienced trouble with these.

Hope you have a good selection of tools handy. You may need them.

If you have trouble you can PM me and I'll do what I can to help.

I weighed a N42 block L28 complete with N42 head (no valve cover), water pump, FI manifold, exhaust manifold, flywheel, and 4-spd trans at 600 lbs. on a commercial scale.

I will admit that a L6 does look a little scary sitting on an engine stand. But I stored the same motor minus the trans on a rear mount engine stand, using long bolts so I could leave the flywheel on, for more than a year. Make sure you use good bolts!!!

Have fun!

I always wanted one of those cool tools. I have always had to rebuild on a bench or the floor.... Too much money for the stand... If you prepare the work area (make it very clean. You do not really need a stand. Think about it the rebuild will take a month at the most. And unless you are going to make a habit out of rebuilding engines, you may never use it again.... Save your money, a good hoist (rented) and a clean work area is all you need.

Only problem is that I am packed into a 1 car garage and need the space -- always.

I will also most likely be making a habit of needing to rebuild something or other, I will be racing one of my Zs...

Projects=excuse to buy cool new tools. If a project does not require a new tool, serious consideration should be given as to wether or not the project should be done.

I'm pulling my engine and trans from a 71 240Z and it sounds as if the 750lb stand will be sufficient. HarborFreight sells them for $39 with free shipping.

I also have a one car garage and will need to move it around periodically so this seemed the best solution. I considered building a dolly, but after buying wheels, etc. the cost would be preety close.

I'm planning to place the order today so if anyone has experiences or thoughts of the HF model, do tell.

Kev/Tom, yes, you can borrow. Have you tried anything with the rotis yet? Also, I have a lead of a 75 280Z in (supposed clean, complete).

hehehehehe =).

we picked up 2 of those HF 750 lb engine stands, as well as a 2 ton folding engine hoist, sandblast cabinet and a 12 ton press.....along with the bearing driver and seal kit and a host of hand and air tools....air shears, disc sander, blah blah blah.

Since the GF has moved out the garage is getting scary. The 76 is now on a 45 degree angle up on the bench. The 260 is on the rotisserie and the basement is an official legitimate parts department.

As for those 750 lb HF stands....thomas and I had a bracket fabbed up which holds a very large oil drain pan under the motor to catch any oil/anti freeze and works great for catching parts before they fall into the abyss known as the floor. The Z motors do bounce around a little bit and you have to go to the hardware store to get longer bolts as the tranny ones are not long enough to sufficiently hold the motor up. Also, be sure to remove your clutch and flywheel prior to sticking it on there otherwise the fingers will not fit. I would recommend making a longer handle too as its a little cumbersome to spin the motor over. One other thing too....we are most likely going to drill the outer housing and install a zerk fitting to make lubing the assembly easier.

What the???

Your either kidding or been real busy... with a shop like that, I'll have to take my parts to your place to blast and prep.

Give a call, let me have the real skinny...

  Quote

Originally posted by phi22b@ck

I really dont want a stand that could hold a mack truck engine -- just one to support my straight 6 for rebuild...

Hey Guys, just for kicks, a Mack Truck Engine (straight six) short block weighs 1758 pounds. The V8 3/4 engine weighs in at a nice 2281 pounds. Thats 998 cubic inches!!

I have the 750 pound stand for my L motors, I added a brace between the vertical and the horizontal support for more stability. It really wobbled before I added the brace. Just be careful folks!!

larry,

i'll drop you a line for sure, however the shop is raging! thomas and I want to drive our cars to the warnock Z show.