First Results

[WW2Winger]

My project has been tested .........

I took my '71 down about 8 months ago with the intent of making some major mods. During this time I did the 5-speed change, the R-200, Tockico Illumina shocks and Tockico springs, lightened flywheel and new clutch. Front and rear sway bars, ...you get the picture. Also, and this is where my issues are, I put the MSA big brakes on the front and their rear disc kit on the rear. First track day session was this past weekend and everything was good except the brakes. The car, particularly after some heat was introduced, did not stop. Before you start telling me about brake fade etc, the pedal was still good, the car just wouldn't stop. The obvious mistake I made was using the pads that MSA sent with the kit, but I'm not sure that the pads will fix it all.

This car is excellent in most every way and I am very proud of it. I need a good solution for the brakes. Obviously I could spend even more money and go with Willwoods or others, but I've also been told that good carbon kevlar pads will make a huge difference. Also a proportioning valve may be called for and a larger master cylinder. So far, I am not impressed with the Toyota calipers, but maybe just the pads ....

The main purpose of this car will be a weekend driver and frequent track days car.

As always, any input is appreciated.

[FHPTOM]

I have pretty much the same setup except I did it piecemeal instead of from MSA. The pads will make a bit of difference. I run Porterfield race pads in my 260 track car and they usually last about 7-9 hot laps at Sebring, 17 turns sub 3min laps). Heat is an issue as I will be fabricating cooling ducts to the fronts. This is with the solid rotors, not the vented ones.

Tom

[Zs-ondabrain]

I'm also doing the Rear disk brake set-up on my 260Z. And from what I've read. You really need the extra fluid push of the 79' to 81' ZX Master Cylinder.

I can't compare mine to yours as of yet because it won't be done till spring. I wil also have the Toyota 4-pistons on front and ZX calipers on the rear. ZX MC in front and the Willwood? adjuster in-line to the rear.

[John Coffey]

Did you bed the new pads and rotors before going out on the track or during the first session?

[WW2Winger]

Bedded the rotors and pads prior to the weekend events. I'm thinking that clean rotors, race pads, a bigger MC and a proportioning valve will all be a significant improvement with no wasted money. If I eventually have to go to Wilwoods, etc. I've only spent money on pads in the interim.

Thanks Tom, John and Dave; keep the comments coming.

[Richard Oben]

Unless you have a ton of experience with race pads do not overestimate the benefit of a good set of pads. We help on a race car (not a z but a 2450 lb car with 11 rotors on the front) and it runs Carbotech pads. We run XP10s on the front and XP12s on the rear. The car will throw the driver against the belts every time, even on a 3 hour enduro, (which we won!).

The other thing is cooling ducts. We blew a cooling hose on one session, the brakes went to crap in a one lap.

In short, get race pads, get good high temp fluid and get cooling ducts. I would bet those three things will help more than you can possibly imagine. HTH, cheers Richard.

[WW2Winger]

Thanks Richard. My short term strategy, (read budgetarilly constrained), is to turn my rotors a bit to clean them up, fresh Motul600, the larger Master Cylinder, and race pads. Possibly a proportioning valve. The costs of these mods is relatively low when compared to new calipers and rotors of the racing type. I will also look at cooling ducts. Thanks again