does any one know or have a close idea as to what the corner weights or even the front to back split % of a 240k is?

reason i ask is im building a 240k track car with a rb25de in it, the 25de much to my surprise actually lines up sweet with the factory 240k mounts and such introduces a little dilemma for me, being a race car ideally a 50/50 split would be nice for handling but now its so easy to bolt it im im pondering if i need to goto all the effort of moving the engine back approx 30cm or so as its going to be a bit of a job (sump, mounts, tunnel, firewall, moving in car bracing so i can get the gear stick some where and so on).

looking at where the engine sits in relation to the front strut towers is showing i probably need to move it back but im still unsure as i will be sitting much further back in the cabin and the fuel cell will be further back as with the battery so im thinking its possible it may ballance but im still unsure.

ive read a few members here say that 240k's handle like pigs and im wondering if its because of their weight split or just generally bad suspension setup or maybe both but knowing the weight split would help in my decision as then i could put it down to ok the suspension needs work (it always does anyways) and the weight will be fine or i need to fix this main problem of the weight split and then it will make getting a good suspension setup easier as i wont have the problem of a bad weight split to combat as well as making the suspension better. If you follow me.

cheers

Mark

Edited November 26, 200816 yr by mark105

Sedan or coupe?

ive read a few members here say that 240k's handle like pigs

Bullshit!!! can you please link in the posts where you have read this?

If you want true 50/50 weight distribution you will have to move the engine back or you will never get it unless you throw some lead in the boot. The RB25 is a very heavy engine which correct me if I'm wrong weighs more than the L24.

Why are you going to be sitting right back in the cabin, wouldn't that require a whole heap of steering and pedal mods?

you want good split? ditch the rb25de, and put an sr20deT in, sit that right back in the bay, And it will make more power than an rb25de as well!

50/50 is not "ideal" for anything except car magazine articles and advertising. If you're going to be racing get the weight back on the rear. I think the RB25 is heavier than the L series. The SR20DET mounted as far back as possible is a good idea.

tiz a coupe, steering mods are easy and puts driver and passenger weight further back. pedal box is again easy coz you can just buy them and it means i get 1 less thing out of the engine bay and gives more room for ITBs. sr20 is a no go, main ingredients to this car is straight six, N/A and DOHC which rules out sr20 all together in my books.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19837&highlight=suspension

mainly from that post people are saying handling isnt the best.

ive read a few members here say that 240k's handle like pigs and im wondering if its because of their weight split or just generally bad suspension setup or maybe both but knowing the weight split would help in my decision as then i could put it down to ok the suspension needs work (it always does anyways) and the weight will be fine or i need to fix this main problem of the weight split and then it will make getting a good suspension setup easier as i wont have the problem of a bad weight split to combat as well as making the suspension better. If you follow me.

cheers

Mark

Compared to most modern cars, yes a stock 240K handles like a pig. Yopu can improve with bushes, shocks, springs, geometry and tyres. Looking at what's winning IPRA races should show you the overall potential of a 240K.

The suspension in a 240K was a compromise in 1970, and is even more of a compromise today. As I said, it can be improved on, but will never match a dedicated race car suspension (well, DUH!!) There are far more advanced IRS setups out there too, don't fall into the old "IRS must be the best" trap. A well sorted live rear will outhandle a mediocre 240K every day.

Remember, camber changes are your enemy and the 240K has that in spades, unless you limit the suspension travel to such a degree that suspension becomes pointless.

Don't get me wrong - you can have serious fun in a 240K, and end up with a competitive car, but for outright circuit honours (or class honours for that matter) there are better choices out there. Also, you can extract obscene amounts of reliable power from an L28. Why go to the expense and weight of an RB25?

RB25DE as i want something twin cam, a six and N/A. Im going to be leaving it in the stock position now just getting it low in the engine bay. This car is just to have some fun in, its not even been built to any class regs just for club events and hill climbs and mainly to have fun in. If i was to be building something competitive i wouldnt even be starting with a C110 anyways, i would be looking at a C10 sedan or a Z car. Might post some pics if you guys are interested in a "boat anchor" going into a C110

i certainly wouldn't be wasting a C10 on racing