Hello All,

Well, I have my car running after sitting for 4yrs. I bought it a year or so ago but was really busy and have just gotten around to bringing her back to life (very slowly & carefully). She runs but idles erratically, I've set the valves, checked timing, and set the carbs best I can without a Uni-syn. I see oil during start, but the gauge reads "0" @ idle (bad press xmitter), however follows engine RPM. What's normal @ idle ? She runs very rough, almost like she wants to grenade herself. The car is a bit of a Hybred: '71 240, 280ZX block w/flat top pistons, E31 head, E46 intake, 4screw SU's, Crane 6AL Ignition, & 280z Magnetic Dist. This is the configuration the PO had when I bought it. Is there a conflict of parts combination? I would like to get her running right before I tear her down for cosmetics.

I wouldn't worry about the oil pressure reading 0 at idle. This is a Z trait and usually not a sign of worry (as long as it goes up with the revs!).

The combination of parts shouldn't create a problem. You did not mention if you had put fresh gas in. That could be a large contributor to your rough running...drain and refill w/ fresh hi-test...

Frank

sorry to steal the question but my oil pressure runs at about the middle at idle then if I run for awhile it might go up alittle higher, I'm not the best mechanic so my question may be... does my pressure gauge even work?

Yes, I used fresh gas and oil. However, I just pulled the distributor cap and see the rotor is not pointing at #1 cyl TDC. It's pointing at the drivers seat, and when I rotate it to #1 cyl the timing mark is off scale. The #1&2 cam lobes are butterflied, sort of like a "V" indicating the vlv is closed at TDC. Though I've read in other post where they describe the lobes as pointing straight up, confused on that. I bought a new oil pressure switch, but she doen't want to run right now, so still troubleshooting. Guess I should have been more thorough in my pre-checks prior to starting. Ah well, it's good stuff getting back into car work, and the wife is cool with it so far . . . !!!

Unless you pulled the head or the timing cover or removed the distributor I would say that the rough running is not a result of the timing being dramatically off. I'd see if it runs smoothly, at least temporarily, with starting fluid sprayed into each carb. If so you've likely got a fuel delivery problem. If not I'd started checking ignition components (coil, cap, rotor, plugs, plug wires) before thinking that the timing somehow changed on its own while the car was sitting for 4 years. I don't know anything about the Crane setup so I don't know if that could be a factor.