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my car runs really smooth, starts up fine... the electronic fuel injection 1976 automatic 3 speed version.

but i took it for a drive after sitting for about 2 or 3 years, in a cool garage

very good condition, ac still cold LOL, 112k miles.

i have dent in my gas tank, i have a new fuel pump, new fuel filters, newspark plugs, new fuel line hoses... seems like a fuel problem, but i suspect electrical, not sure how to check the fuse boxes regarding this problem.... or test the ecu or any other electrical things im supposed to look at to diagnose the issue.

after driving 3 to 10 miles it will start to loose acceleration, and as i press the gas pedal down more to a certain idle the engine wont respond. but if i let off to a certian level the engine will idle fine and eventully i have to pull to the side and shut the car off for about 1 minute... i tried disconnect and re-connect the battery hoping something will reset and most of the time i have another 3 or 10 miles till i have to repeat this again LOL or i just have to try again with reseting the car.... most i've had to try was 3-4 times until it could go again for another 3-10 miles.

when i put the car in park though while its about to die out in reverse, or drive... the engine will rev fine.

no check engine lights, temperature gauge as well as rpm gauge work but seem to be off.

please help me i live in vegas or give me a call very desperate.

702-979-0405

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With all that you have replaced, have you stopped to consider pulling the gas tank and checking the integrity of it? Our tanks have a propensity to rust, especially if left to sit for an extended period of time.

It is most likely that you are experiencing what happens when a load of crud clogs up the fuel screen in the tank and/or in the fuel pump. After the car has sat for a while, the crud settles back down in the tank and allows you to drive some more. Likewise, easing off the throttle allows the pump to slow down, thus reducing the draw through the tank.


well someone called me and said that it could be the air flow meter, or the fuel pressure regulator... could that be correct vs checking the gas tank for crud.

because when i turn the car off, then turn it back on, sometimes it gets better. well thanx for your help so far.

Check the tank for crud first, then while you are at it, check the filter in the fuel pump (assuming you have an original pump). IF it is not that, then we will start discussing electrical connections.

We've all been here before and are speaking from experience: search the site and you will see that more cars with your particular issue are tank related than not.

Checking the tank is not hard, and doing it is free. Why start throwing money at things that MIGHT be the problem, unless you like throwing money away (in which case, I'll give you my address and you can throw it my way). :)

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