Series 1 Engine Paint Plan - Details Please

[JohnnyO]

Sorry for the hi-jack, but I couldn't resist with such a good picture and opportunity.

I'm going to go Stand In The Corner for a while, now!

Dan

You can come out now. I do it all the time, it's about time it happened to me.

[Mike B]

Does the alternator you pictured have a part number engraved into the housing? There were actually two grapefruit alternators, one for the L20 and one for the L24 with different part numbers. I think that #210 could be a gold mine of originality info. Standby for being pestered by me.

In your picture, you show that little oil press. sending unit wiring minder which is bolted to front engine mount. Would you, or anyone, happen to have an extra one of these little minder hooks available for sale?

Dan, it does have something engraved on the top. I tried to clean it off quickly, but I probably need to take it off to see it better. If you look at the first picture Kats attached in the post in the other thread, it looks like there is a Hitachi symbol and some writting, maybe a part number. Kats says the Hitachi part is #LT145-35. The parts catalog shows the Nissan part #23100-A4800 for the early 40A alternator.

As for the oil pressure sending unit wiring minder, I checked my low mileage 72 and it also has it, so apparently it is not just an early item. It is missing from #32, however. Unfortunately, I don't think I have any spares.

Keep the questions coming. I think #210 will be a good reference car, I just wish it was warmer and I had more time to spend with it.

-Mike

[AZ-240z]

Kats says the Hitachi part is #LT145-35. The parts catalog shows the Nissan part #23100-A4800 for the early 40A alternator.

Keep the questions coming. I think #210 will be a good reference car, I just wish it was warmer and I had more time to spend with it.

-Mike

Thanks, Mike. That is my point of confusion. I have two alternators with the following engraved in the housing.

# 1. LT140-53 104 (Not LT145-35 as Kats references)

23100 A4800

# 2. LT145-35B105

23100-E5200

But my FSM engine book on page EE-20 says the Hitachi LT145-35 is for an

L24 engine with an output of 12V-45A, and the Hitchi LT 140-53 is for an L20A engine with an output of 12V-40A.

Both of these grapefruit alternators appear to be identical in appearance, otherwise. Our parts CD shows the original alternator is 23100 A4800 with an output of 12V-40A.

When the weather warms and you get into cleaning under the hood, you may hold the definitive answer as to what is correct.

Thanks, Mike.

Dan

Edited January 4, 2009 by AZ-240z

[26th-Z]

I concur, Dan. My Nov. 1969 engine manual lists the same information however the parts catalog says 40amp. I don't know why. I'll have to dig mine out and have a look at the stampings on the castings. In the mean time, a couple of pictures to reference the color blue and the overspray on the oil pan. The oil pan in front is correct for early engines as it has the reinforced plate on the side. Service bulletin TS70-28 from August 21, 1970 shows an eight counterweight crankshaft replacing the six counterweight shaft. As I have understood, this was due to vibrations which I believe caused the oil pan to crack. Thus engine serial #'s prior to L24-3607 would have the reinforced pan. Notice the paint "overspray".

[JohnnyO]

The oil pan in front is correct for early engines as it has the reinforced plate on the side. Service bulletin TS70-28 from August 21, 1970 shows an eight counterweight crankshaft replacing the six counterweight shaft. As I have understood, this was due to vibrations which I believe caused the oil pan to crack. Thus engine serial #'s prior to L24-3607 would have the reinforced pan. Notice the paint "overspray".

That answers my next question "how do you tell the difference."

I guess the easiest way is the ribs. The PO painted the whole oil pan blue. Guess he took over spray to the extreme.

Thanks

[26th-Z]

The oil pan from 26th restored. The plate on the side was actually braised to the pan. Now a question I have. Was the alternator pulley painted or plated? I know the fan blades are plated, but the engine service manual, even though black and white photographs, shows what appears to be a painted pulley.

[zpizzaman20]

I am thinking that the parts manual is correct and the FSM is wrong on the alternator.

[Mike B]

Here is the alternator on #32 (its a little cleaner) . I tried lighting it and taking pictures from several different angles and these where the best I could do. I think it has something that ends in 45 on the top and maybe 904 below that? I don't know, I look at this stuff too long and its like looking at inkblots, I could pretty much turn it into anything.

-Mike

[JohnnyO]

Back to the paint plan for a minute.

Is it common for the aluminum valve cover to "oxidize" black over time?

Should I leave it that way or buff it out?

At first I thought the po had painted it but aircraft remover did nothing so I hit it with a buffing wheel and some polishing compound and it came clean immediately.

What is correct?

John

[Zealous]

You could always glass bead blast it and it would come out looking very close to stock from the factory. I think a buffing will wheel with compound will give it too polished a look for stock.

I have a thing for shiny things though and am currently polishing mine but it is quite pitted and taking awhile with the 400/600 grits before going to 1000 and buffing.

[AZ-240z]

Here is the alternator on #32 (its a little cleaner) . I tried lighting it and taking pictures from several different angles and these where the best I could do. I think it has something that ends in 45 on the top and maybe 904 below that? I don't know, I look at this stuff too long and its like looking at inkblots, I could pretty much turn it into anything.

-Mike

Thanks, Mike. I won't be home for a few days, but when I return I will try to upload a couple of pics of my alternators with the inscriptions for comparison.

The engraved parts numbers may be on a part of the housing closer to the mounting pin.

Dan

[Carl Beck]

Back to the paint plan for a minute.

Is it common for the aluminum valve cover to "oxidize" black over time?

No - aluminum will oxidize to a white power.

Should I leave it that way or buff it out?

Leave it what way???

At first I thought the po had painted it but aircraft remover did nothing so I hit it with a buffing wheel and some polishing compound and it came clean immediately.

Clean Aluminum or clean black????

What is correct?

Clean cast aluminum is stock.

Has the valve cover been Black Anodized? Did buffing it result in semi-gloss black??

FWIW,

Carl B.