February 9, 200916 yr comment_273654 I plan on painting mine black this week. Maybe you were talking to Wally. I think somebody said "satin black".Actually, it was based on the two pictures you attached in post #66 above. Why paint it blue with the block if you are going to paint it black this week?-Mike Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/30365-series-1-engine-paint-plan-details-please/?&page=7#findComment-273654 Share on other sites More sharing options...
February 9, 200916 yr comment_273657 Zak' date='Is that the original block color or another shade of blue?John[/quote']I used Duplicolor DE 1631 Chrysler Blue. Its the closest color I could find in a pre-mixed rattle can. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/30365-series-1-engine-paint-plan-details-please/?&page=7#findComment-273657 Share on other sites More sharing options...
February 9, 200916 yr Author comment_273658 Actually, it was based on the two pictures you attached in post #66 above. Why paint it blue with the block if you are going to paint it black this week?-MikeSorry, I should have been clearer. I left the oil pan on when I painted the block so I wouldnt have to mask it off. The PO had it painted blue. I have all intentions of painting it black, hopefully this week. Edited February 9, 200916 yr by JohnnyO Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/30365-series-1-engine-paint-plan-details-please/?&page=7#findComment-273658 Share on other sites More sharing options...
February 9, 200916 yr Author comment_273659 I used Duplicolor DE 1631 Chrysler Blue. Its the closest color I could find in a pre-mixed rattle can.OK. I was beginning to worry that I got the wrong color from Tower. It does look closer than Old Ford Blue. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/30365-series-1-engine-paint-plan-details-please/?&page=7#findComment-273659 Share on other sites More sharing options...
February 10, 200916 yr comment_273712 Thanks Mike and Jonny'O, I'll repaint the oil pan , and relook at timing cover and oil pump and compare every thingelse with the previous posts on original engine colors. What a large number of differences. Thanks for all the help. I'll be asking for more as the project continues to completion. This is the first 240Z restoration for the guy doing the job, see his site at RodShopOfMemphis.comWally Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/30365-series-1-engine-paint-plan-details-please/?&page=7#findComment-273712 Share on other sites More sharing options...
February 10, 200916 yr comment_273714 Wally, your car is looking great. That is a serious looking fuel pump on the engine too!-Mike Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/30365-series-1-engine-paint-plan-details-please/?&page=7#findComment-273714 Share on other sites More sharing options...
February 10, 200916 yr Author comment_273748 So here are the details as I have learned over the last few weeks. Pictures of what I have done will be added soon.Block: Datsun "Dusty" BlueOil Pan: Black; Satin or Semi-Gloss (not positive yet)Crank Pulley: BlueSmog Pump Pulley: BlueSmog Pump Casing: NaturalSmog Pump Rear Plate: BlackTiming Cover: NaturalWater Pump: Natural Alternator Casing: NaturalAlternator Fan: Cad PlatedAlternator Pulley: BlackCam Cover: NaturalHead: NaturalMisc. Water Pipes: Cad PlatedWater Inlet/Outlet: NaturalOil Pump: NaturalDistributor: NaturalThermostat Housing: NaturalAir Box: OrangeFuel Rail: Cad PlatedCarb Linkage: Cad PlatedMotor Mounting Brackets: BlackEnd Plate/Bell Housing Cover Plate: Silver Zinc PlatedIntake Manifold: NaturalExhaust Manifold: NaturalAlternator/Smog Pump Adjusting Arms: BlueCooling Fan: Off-White or Antique WhiteCooling Fan Clutch: NaturalCooling Fan Pulley: Cad PlatedIf you see any thing that needs correcting or if I missed a part please let me know.When I say natural I am essentially talking about a good glass beading job. You can add a coat of flat aluminum as suggested above on all but the head I would imagine. Still don't know the exact color for the Orange airbox. I tried VHT Orange header paint and I just don't like how it covers. I have used 3 cans and it still needs more. Plus you have to clear coat it after baking.... I may contact Tower Paint to see if they have it.Well, I hope this helps anybody that stumbles upon it. Edited February 11, 200916 yr by JohnnyO Added parts that were missing; corrected items. 2/11/09 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/30365-series-1-engine-paint-plan-details-please/?&page=7#findComment-273748 Share on other sites More sharing options...
February 10, 200916 yr comment_273749 Les at Classicdatsun.com has the correct orange air box paint. I took a quick glance at your list and it all seems correct to me.-Mike Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/30365-series-1-engine-paint-plan-details-please/?&page=7#findComment-273749 Share on other sites More sharing options...
February 10, 200916 yr comment_273753 John,The oil pan, to be totally correct I believe, should be a semi gloss to gloss black. The alternator fan is gold cad, as you mentioned, but the alternator pulley should be semi-gloss black and the securing nut and washer in the center should be gold cad. This can be seen in the early maintenance manuals that I have. Opinion about the pulley color has been mixed in difference discussions here, but this is my conclusion, FWIW.Dan Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/30365-series-1-engine-paint-plan-details-please/?&page=7#findComment-273753 Share on other sites More sharing options...
February 11, 200916 yr comment_273783 The bell housing cover plate, or as I call it 'end plate", is steel and is plated. I think silver zink however I see them in light gold cad. I agree with Dan in that 'satin black' could be 'semi-gloss'. The old paint I look at on my parts has some sheen to it. That could be the age as well as the scrubbing to get the part clean. I went with semi-gloss. My alternator pulleys are black with the light gold cad fan. The shop manual shows it that way even though it is a B&W photo. The pulley is solid black in the exploded diagram also. FWIWOriginal cad plating, as we call it gold cad, isn't very gold and isn't a consistant color. I have seen restored stuff that is jewlery-store gold in color and that's not completely correct. Have a look at the pulley bolt picture I posted. It almost looks silver. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/30365-series-1-engine-paint-plan-details-please/?&page=7#findComment-273783 Share on other sites More sharing options...
February 11, 200916 yr comment_273794 Someone maybe it was Chris said that we sell Tower Paint but I do not we make and sell our own Mix on all our paints custom made for us by Sherwin Williams and where needed the correct additives added for heat or flex or flattening the color to get them right. May cost a little more but the quality of real automotive paint sure beats the cheap bomb cans in most cases. never had any complaints on our engine paint nor air cleaner paints. Take care!Les Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/30365-series-1-engine-paint-plan-details-please/?&page=7#findComment-273794 Share on other sites More sharing options...
February 11, 200916 yr Author comment_273829 Someone maybe it was Chris said that we sell Tower Paint but I do not we make and sell our own Mix on all our paints custom made for us by Sherwin Williams and where needed the correct additives added for heat or flex or flattening the color to get them right. May cost a little more but the quality of real automotive paint sure beats the cheap bomb cans in most cases. never had any complaints on our engine paint nor air cleaner paints. Take care!LesThanks for letting us know. I don't think anyone here doubts the quality of ANY of your products. You and your company come highly regarded.John Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/30365-series-1-engine-paint-plan-details-please/?&page=7#findComment-273829 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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