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MSD #8202 Blaster 1 Coil


g9m3c

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MSD #8202 Blaster 2 coil. Is this the part number I need for my 260Z? I've read something about removing a ballast resistor (which I'm guessing is the cylinder shaped thing mounted next to the coil with a wire leading to the + connection on the coil?), but that thread was about a 240, so I wasn't sure if I had to do that or not. I've also read about some tachometer issues when installing an aftermarket coil. Do I need to do any wiring modifications to make it work or anything else? Thanks guys.

-Grant

Edited by g9m3c
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Grant, If your just changing the coil only and using the original transistor ignition just replace the coil using the original 3 wire ballast. If your original ignition has been removed and using a points dizzy a 0.8 ohm ballast is required to + terminal . Ballast is not required if using msd set-up ,my 74 260 has a msd 6a with original electronic dizzy needed a tack adapter

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  • 2 weeks later...
MSD #8202 Blaster 2 coil. Is this the part number I need for my 260Z? I've read something about removing a ballast resistor (which I'm guessing is the cylinder shaped thing mounted next to the coil with a wire leading to the + connection on the coil?), but that thread was about a 240, so I wasn't sure if I had to do that or not. I've also read about some tachometer issues when installing an aftermarket coil. Do I need to do any wiring modifications to make it work or anything else? Thanks guys.

-Grant

The Blaster 2 Coil (#8202/#8200) is a low resistance coil for a capacitive ignition such as the MSD 6 series, for the default inductive ignition you should rather use a Bosch red coil (1,6 Ohm) using the Datsun ballast resistor, or a Bosch blue coil (3,2 Ohm) for a setup without a ballast resistor.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I am not sure if this helps or not. I am currently trying to figure out what to do with my 510. I have been told by many including Todd at Wolfcreek that if you are using electronic ignition then you don't need a ballast resistor (internal or external). It is my understanding that the ballast resistor is there to protect the points.

If you eliminate the points then you just need the electronic ignition box and the blaster 2 coil.

I am going with a 1980 510 mathbox dizzy. it has the electronic control module on the side of the unit. I am also adding the MSD blaster 2. Todd and others said that's it. Good to go.

Hope that helps some.

Chart505. The PO just may not have known what to do as many don't. I believe this may be the reason my car has had some trouble as I currently have the Crane fireball XR700 with a Bosch brazilian made epoxy filled coil with internal ballast resistor.

I have been told this is most likely my problem with eratic behavior.

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