Car Won't Start, ignition system problems!

[Daniel]

At least it makes noise now!!Alway replace the condensor with the points.They don't normally go bad but when they do the points will suffer rapidly.Also make sure that wire with the bad insulation is not shorting out inside the dist.There should be no continuity between the dist base and that wirewith the points open.Thats why it attaches to that plastic insulator on the dist and the point.If it shorts the points are not even used as the ground path just runs through the dist. plate.Bad points could cause your plugs to foul over time as they do work together.tey to get the correct gap.Remember you're closer than you were!!!!Not to mention alittle wiser!! Have fun!! Daniel OH yeah make sure the plug wires are seated in the dist.cap when you replace it sometime the work loose during cap removal.Also the datsun book says a 60% power loss and poor running if the coil is wired backwards.Make sure the neg is going to the dist.

[Daniel]

That worn wire is inside the dist right?The photo looks like it was perhaps smashed between the cap and dist..Probably just the photo.

[Seanh]

NOW I'm getting somewhere...There appears to be 6 ohms of continuity between ground and that wire with the points open...However...its not the wire thats torn up thats causing the problem...I unhooked it all from the little plastic thing in the side of the distributor...And found that its the black wire that is causeing the problem short...I don't know where it goes to though...I'm assumeing this is the one that hooks to the negative side of the distributor right? Now, is it supposed to be grounded or not? Either way, yes, with the points open there are 6 ohms of resistance between ground and that wire...I'm assumeing there should be no continuity between that and a ground right?

This wire that goes on the negative side of the coil, where does it run to? I think its the one that I'm haveing a problem with, doesn't it sound like that? If so, where else does this wire run to? Does it just run between the neg. side of the coil and the distributor? If so, I'm guessing it should only be grounded when the points are closed, and not grounded when they are open right?

[Seanh]

Checking again I seem to be a little off that last time...With the key in the run position, there is 0 ohms between ground and the worn insulated wire in the distributor...So apperently my problem lies here...I found out that if I pull that negative wire off the coil, the grounding stops...so if my new coil shot and causeing the problem do you think?

But yeah, all and all, there is perfect continuity between ground (dist. houseing) and the wore wire, with the points open...however the worn wire is not whats at fault, and if I pull the negative wire off the coil this grounding stops...

[Daniel]

First I stand corrected.I get full continuity 0ohms across everything in my dist. points open or closed.Unplugging my coil neg though hasNO EFFECT!!Still o ohms.That makes me wonder about the "good" ground wire in your dist.Since you just rescrewed one end when you replaced the points.Lets try this.Unscrew the other end and scrape the connector and where it seats.also while it is undone check cont. thru it.No need for the key on.It will shock you if you get between the points and the switch is on.

[Daniel]

Ok I'm better now I checked on a dist spare I had and did not get cont. with the point open.That makes sense..It seems in the car it get a ground path that tricked me.I still think you lack a good ground in your dist as the coil connection has no effect on my readings.

[Seanh]

Actually I unscrew both ends of both wires in there and I'm still getting the same effect....Now just something else that might be of interest...I appear to get 5 ohms of resistance between the coil negative and the frame of the car...This is the same reading as I get at the distributor also, so I know that the little torn up wire isn't bad or shorting out...It has continuity thru it all the time no matter which way I twist it...I just put new plugs in it also, to no avail...runs just as bas as before...What the hell is wrong with this peice of crap?

[Seanh]

I'm just at a total lose now. I have no idea whats going on or how the hell to fix it...unless I can figure it out tonight this Datsun will be one less car cluttering up my driveway...

[Seanh]

Something else that may be of help here...I just checked restances again around my dist...

It appears, with the points OPEN (apart) that I'm getting only 5-6 ohms between the two coil points...I would think this should be infinity right? There shouldn't be any continuity between the points when they are open should there be? And, once again, If I pull my negative wire off the coil then the resistance becomes infinity, but as soon as they coil wire is hooked back up its back to 5-6 ohms...I think this is my problem area here...

How exactly does the points ignition work? Do the plugs fire when points are open or closed? Is the coil supposed to have constant power and constant ground while the car is running? Or is the coil switched on and off for each fireing of the plugs? If it is, how? thru grounding or thru power?

[Daniel]

OK new game.It seems that when you replaced the point it ran.Thats good.It makes me think that moving/rescrewing that ground that looks good (NOT the worn wire the other one)had an effect.If you have scraped and cleaned both ends of that and still need the coil attached to get a ground path the only thing left is the battery neg.If you go from battery neg to the location it attaches to the starter do you get any voltage?If you do that needs cleaning at the starter end most likely but,both ends is a good thing.Usually The starter will be slow or not work at all when that happens.We need fresh clean connections.You can't look at them and say they look good.Those are the locations that hardly ever get touched.I wish it was here and we could work on it together.Don't get angry at the car.It's old .This is part of the game .You must be patient and learn the tricks.Feel good that you have help.When I walked in your shoes this was not available.It'll work out. Daniel

[Daniel]

No the coil is just transformer.A couple of coils of wire. The fact you get a reading across both leads just means the wires between primary and secondary windings are good.When the points are closed it allows current flow thru the coil.when the points break the path of least resistance becomes the spark plugs and the coil" transforms"low voltage high ampre to high voltage low ampre the path of least resistance becomes the spark plugs.The rotor position in the dist. determines the cylinder that will become that path.The fact your car started and since it is new I thinkyour coil is good.You seem to have a poor ground path from you dist. to the battery.That path is dist.,block, to the location on the starter where your neg battery terminal attaches then battery.I hope this helps.The fix will be simple we just have to find it.Let me know if you give up.I don't want you to do so but,I'll stay online until then. Daniel

[Seanh]

Well its finally alive...I feel really dumb, but the entire time the problem was that I didn't have my little radio capacitor noise reducer thing or whatever that thing is that hooks to the negative side of the coil hooked up...I was out working on the car when my parents came home tonight...Mom walks over to the car and I show her how it wasn't running very good and start it up...She looked at the engine (doesn't know a thing about it) and sees that little wire off the negative side of the coil not hooked up...Shes like, Oh theres your problem right there...I laughed and said fine, hooked it up, started it up again and I'll-be-damned...the thing started right up and reved perfectly...I just about wanted to nuke the car when that happened...All this time it could have been running, but I didn't even think this stupid little cap. needed to be hooked up to make it run, but obviosly it does...But yeah, all apears to be good now...I went ahead and replaced that torn up grounding wire while I had it apart, and cleaned up all the grounds in the distributor...I think another contributing problem was my connections all over, they were just caked with grease, so I crimped some new female connectors on the ends of all those wires also. The $300 beast runs once again...

BTW, anyone interested in replace their coil might want to look into this one I bought...Its the Accel Super Steet Coil, available at Advance Auto Parts for about $32.00 and it usually kept in stock. Very nice unit for the money I believe...Time will only tell how durable it is, but the power it puts out is nice...