Posted January 18, 200916 yr comment_271398 Hi all, looking forward to checking out the site. I have a 73 (owned it since 79). It was on the side of my property for about 12 years. Has some cancer on the passenger inner fender well. Looks like I will need to cut it out and rebuild the side and shore up the battery stand. Tried to fire it up today, but no spark. So testing begins tomorrow. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/30540-new-guy-in-washington-state/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
January 18, 200916 yr comment_271400 Welcome to the site.Make liberal use of the search function, a treasure trove of information can be found on the site.Good luck with the ressurection. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/30540-new-guy-in-washington-state/#findComment-271400 Share on other sites More sharing options...
January 18, 200916 yr Author comment_271403 Wow, after viewing some of the hidden damage on some these posts. I have a feeling it will be way too much work. I really don't plan on a full restoral, I want it to be a weekend driver. Edited January 18, 200916 yr by Heydewd Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/30540-new-guy-in-washington-state/#findComment-271403 Share on other sites More sharing options...
January 18, 200916 yr comment_271405 I hope you changed the oil and filter and shot some oil in the cylinders before you tried to turn the engine over with a wrench. Don't use the starter. When these engines are not running there are two cylinders exposed to the outside air. Plus valve stems are where they are inside the manifolds. Pour oil over the cam and rockers . Then you can turn over the engine if it is not locked up. If you spin the engine with out doing this you can damage things like the cam, rockers, rings that could be rusted to the cylinders walls. If the valve stems are rusty, and the valve sticks down the piston will hit it when it comes up and can bend the valve and or punch a whole in a piston. Also don't flush old gas into the carbs and fuel sysitm it will cause you a lot of extra work. Especially on a car that has been idle outside for this long. with a scoket you can turn the engine over with the nut on the crank shaft in front of the engine. This is preferred because you can feel what is happening and watch the rocker and valves to see that they are moving properly and not sticking. ATF in the cylinders , about a teaspoon full in each, works great to free things up . Put it in and let it soak at least overnight. Good look with this. Gary, I live just outside of Portland. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/30540-new-guy-in-washington-state/#findComment-271405 Share on other sites More sharing options...
January 18, 200916 yr comment_271409 I followed the instructions as Gary wrote above two years ago and save the engine in mine. Like Gary said make sure everything in moving and clears prior to using the starter to turn it over. By the way welcome from Tacoma. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/30540-new-guy-in-washington-state/#findComment-271409 Share on other sites More sharing options...
January 18, 200916 yr Author comment_271412 Appreciate the tips. Already took care of that prior to cranking it over (I let it sit for another 3 days prior to wrenching on the crank). My major concern is the rust below the battery tray. It has a 3 inch hole. So next week it goes on jack stands and door panels come off to check out how bad things are. I have a feeling in my gut that I will be a seller on Ebay this spring. Edited January 18, 200916 yr by Heydewd Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/30540-new-guy-in-washington-state/#findComment-271412 Share on other sites More sharing options...
January 18, 200916 yr comment_271452 If it is just that hole below the battery. There are a few of us that have welded those up. I did a lot more then that to mine around the battery box. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/30540-new-guy-in-washington-state/#findComment-271452 Share on other sites More sharing options...
January 20, 200916 yr Author comment_271538 I do have a question. The box rail below, that the fuel lines run on. Is that a structural component? It is rusted pretty bad, but doesn't look to be a strong box to begin with. If it is, I will just part it out. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/30540-new-guy-in-washington-state/#findComment-271538 Share on other sites More sharing options...
January 20, 200916 yr Author comment_271540 This is the rail I was speaking of. I borrowed a photo from one of your posts. Mine is rusted bad on the top. I was able to punch holes in it with a screwdriver. Edited January 20, 200916 yr by Heydewd Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/30540-new-guy-in-washington-state/#findComment-271540 Share on other sites More sharing options...
January 20, 200916 yr comment_271554 That's your frame rail, that EVERYTHING sits on... MOTOR and Suspension for example.Ya, it's very importamt to have a stout frame rail on both sides.Dave,Marysville, WA. 20 miles north Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/30540-new-guy-in-washington-state/#findComment-271554 Share on other sites More sharing options...
January 20, 200916 yr Author comment_271556 Dave, thanks.... Time to part her out. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/30540-new-guy-in-washington-state/#findComment-271556 Share on other sites More sharing options...
January 20, 200916 yr comment_271557 Why part her out? You can get new rails to weld in there. If that's the worst section, I would see no reason to deal with it and go from there! Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/30540-new-guy-in-washington-state/#findComment-271557 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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